There is no shortage of the ice climbing goods in Valdez… and for having three days I’d say we’ve gotten a solid helping of the finest available.
Valdez – Intermezzo
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Monthly Archives: February 2011
Valdez – Prelude
After a healthy night of travel, sleep deprived ranting, and driving through more than a few avalanche zones, we’ve arrived safely in Valdez, Alaska. This place does not disappoint. Full photos will be included in the final trip report but today was a warmup. Two 90m pitches of WI2-4 provided an enjoyable introduction to the area. Perfect weather, partners, and place to crash in an unbelievable setting- not much more I could ask for… Tomorrow should be big.
Church
Somehow, I ended up thinking about church this weekend. I haven’t attended a traditional church in years, and I’m quite satisfied with that- however this weekend, I found myself noticing that the places I was in, and the things I was doing, had some relation to that word. It was really a banner weekend…
Church is beautiful- I spent Saturday morning climbing with a great friend at a small mixed ice and rock crag just south of Mt Hood. Always a fun day out, and great workout hanging on my tools in preparation for my trip to Valdez, Alaska.
Church is beautiful.
Getting pious on my first mixed climbing lead ever.
There’s music in church- Saturday night I had the pleasure of playing cello with the Strangled Darlings. It was our first gig, the space was a little noisy and we had trouble hearing each other, but we made it work and it was a great first show together. Makes me excited for our upcoming gigs in California.
There's music in church (photo credit to Pat Clinton or Mark Clark).
There is salvation in church- Sunday morning I woke up and found myself reading “Church of the Big Ring“. I don’t consider myself a bike racer- commuter, enthusiast, and active rider yes, but racer no. Sunday morning however, the sun was shining and the pavement was dry. There was a cold wind blowing down the gorge, and I knew it was time to race my bike. As cycling is one of the few activities that doesn’t aggravate my foot, I was excited to push from my house up the Columbia Gorge, up Rocky Butte, and back through NE Portland. It was some of the only time I had to myself for the weekend, and I didn’t hold back. Even in a short ride, I can feel the recent work done in the gym paying off mostly in being able to climb out of the saddle for a much longer period of time. When we push our bodies to the physical limit, we strip away the useless, the non-essential, and the act of stripping this away offers salvation.
(there isn’t a photo because I didn’t stop pushing until I got home and got off the bike)
There is charity in church- I spent Sunday afternoon in the office using my professional skills to support one of my personal passions. The Commons is a project that I deeply believe in, and I feel lucky to call one of its creators one of my best friends. Pulling together an envelope load for the building isn’t exactly fun, but it is necessary. I’m excited to see this project take shape.
Charity is an opportunity- I feel lucky to have professional skills that can benefit a great project.
If you were a part of my weekend, you are a part of my congregation- thank you.
What We Need
I sat down with a friend from the gym that I train at and at one point asked her “why do you show up and workout really hard?”
She replied “I found that it’s just what I need to do. It sucks, but we need it.” I couldn’t agree with her more.
I’ve been thinking about my training a lot lately. Am I really stronger than at other points in my life? Is the training doing what I want for me? Why do I get up really early in the morning and push myself really really hard, often at unpleasant tasks on a regular basis? I have a sneaking suspicion that my family and some friends think I may be nuts. I look at the training I do in the gym and believe in its quality, and am excited about how it makes me feel. I’m seeing that my gym training correlates well to my outdoor activities, and I enjoy them more because of it. Beyond being physically stronger, the training I have been doing has made me mentally stronger, and in some sense, spiritually stronger. I haven’t been climbing a lot lately, but when I’ve climbed, I’m climbing stronger than ever, and I like it. I’m pushing harder and doing more, but it doesn’t feel that much harder. I look and feel great, and feel like I am investing in my future long term health. All things that validate my training.
But with all that said, there’s an underlying question. My friend hit it on the head- she and I, and the people we train with, we need this- why? The work we do in the gym is unpleasant- many people would look at the work done and wouldn’t be interested in participating. None of us are exceptionally strong, none of us are sponsored athletes, and frankly, few if any of us would really measure up on the grand scale of true elite fitness. And yet, most always, we all get out of bed well before the workday starts to show up to a cold box to give the best we have to the tasks at hand. I feel lucky to train with a group of people that are willing to push really hard. Crossfit seems to drive this in a large group of people, but I would venture to guess that our sessions are even on the far end of the normal spectrum of crossfit athletes. The exercises are not necessarily the difference- the participants and the coaching are the unusual part. Coaches that are willing to put a brutal workout on the board, and a group of people that are willing to pursue the perscription with exceptional tenacity. We push each other, we inspire each other, and we suffer with each other. For those of us who truly feel we ‘need’ this, the need is a part of who we are, and the need itself may just be reason enough.
To the 5:30am crew at Crossfit Fort Vancouver- thank you, I am really going to miss our sessions together. I will remember them as I train, climb, and travel this year.
Work done at 5:30am this morning. My times are in the column on the right.
“Right now, just go be you- do whatever it is that you need to do to just be you.” (Soren Spies)
Smith
- Despite still recovering from a nasty little cold, I took the opportunity to spend a day out with a good friend at Smith Rock State Park. I suppose it was the official start to my rock climbing season, though it will be a slow transition from ice season and frankly climbing is simply a continuous activity that seems to change forms.
I was also eager for this particular opportunity because it may be one of the few times I have to spend at this particular spot for quite some time. Despite all the climbing I have planned this year, Smith is not likely to be a frequent destination and to be sure, I have soft spot for this place that has become a home crag. Strangely enough, Smith climbing is unique, and doesn’t necessarily translate well to much of the climbing I prefer. The rock quality isn’t great, the classics are often crowded, many of the routes are single pitches and shorter, and there are lots and lots of bolts. That said, if you are willing to work for it, you can find excellent quality routes of almost any flavor of climbing. You can push yourself in a supportive community and superbly beautiful place, and still make dinner at an excellent restaurant at the end of the day. I’ve spent more time at Smith than any other single crag in my climbing experience, and regardless of your preferred style or ethics, most of the routes are simply a lot of fun. This place will be a part of my experience in all the amazing places I look forward to climbing.
The skies at Smith are often the best part (photo from August 2010).
One of the best parts about Smith is that you can reliably find great weather and new routes. I’ve got some bunion problems with my left foot, so we were looking to keep approaches short. Strangely enough I had never done any of the routes in the Wooden Ship Gully, and there is a variety of high quality routes to be found. Amongst the day’s accomplishments: the first trip for both of us up Voyage of the Cow Dog (5.9)- a great warm up with beautiful exposure over the Picnic Lunch Wall, my hardest on-sight yet, and several great routes on the Table Scraps Wall.
Topping out Voyage of the Cow Dog- windproof layer is recommended.
The energy was high, the weather was gorgeous, and the climbing was quality. I can’t think of better soil to root my climbing experience in.
60 degrees and sunny- February at Smith is awesome.
Simple kit for a warm February day of sport climbing.
A solid partner can make or break the best days. Thanks for making mine Pat.
After a full day, we still feel humble.
“Denial is the active ingredient in Ibuprofin.” (Patrick Clinton)
Los Angeles
(written 02.08.2011 in LA, posted 02.09.2011 in PDX)
I was in Los Angeles for work today, giving a presentation that in some ways is a showcase of the most significant achievements of my career. Some of you know that I spent a lot of time here last year to figure out that a friendship was not meant to be a romance. There are memories of this place, some warm, some not. I’m particularly happy to say that last evening found that friendship, and others, intact and moving forwards.
This visit has been different- my professional obligations give me more focus and purpose, and there are a number of wonderful people at the company office in LA that I sincerely admire, and will miss working with. After giving a practice run of my presentation over lunch, I spent a bit of time sharing my traveling plans with people. As has been the case with most of the other employees I have talked to, people are understanding of my opportunity, and perhaps just a little jealous of what I am up to.
In a way, there is more sadness here than I expected, certainly remnants of a failed romance, but also of a career that seems to be getting snatched from its highest point in the sky. I nailed my presentation earlier tonight, and was excited to see other developments in my field. I’m proud of what I’ve done as a professional in the sustainable building industry, and perhaps I didn’t fully account for the difficulty involved in quitting my job on a positive note.
This city has an energy and a style somehow seems to resonate with me. I often considered (as probably many would) Los Angeles to be the opposite place of where I might feel at home. Massive highways, unfriendly bike infrastructure, and ostentatious displays of wealth certainly don’t feel welcoming, but on the other side, I see people having fun, a rich history of places, and feel a buzz of unusual purpose in the air. The people who are here, are stoked to be here. It’s a stark change from the listless, jaded glaze so common in Portland.
The mantra returns- it’s time to let the baggage go and stick the feeling. I’ve got another 40 years to work, and this time is important.
Only at LAX could I find a 100+ cheerleading team, dressed in full uniform, giggly with excitement, headed to Orlando for a competition.
Many fond memories of this place, I'll miss coming here.
On the way home, I had a pretty good look at where I'll be training for Denali later this year. Sierra Mountains, California
2011.02.05 Training
Garage Crossfit with Dustin- still sore from accumulation squat workout on Thursday. (435 squats @38#)
WarmUp:
2 Rounds- 100 single jump rope, 5 wall squats, 10 air squats, 10 passthrus, 40 second deadhang.
Then, for time:
50 air squats
40 pushups
30 weighted situps (10#)
20 pistols (each leg)
10 one arm pushups (each arm)
8:21
Cool Down:
50 air squats
walk
Stick the Feeling
“Let go of the baggage, and get that feeling to stick.”
This was one of the earliest, and most important lessons I’ve learned from moving over vertical rock and ice. Just below the crux (hardest) moves of any climb, this is the single greatest challenge separating the climber from completing the ascent. Fear, doubt, worry and other negative elements- are all forms of baggage, and will only weigh you down, preventing your upward progress. Somewhat unsurprisingly, the act of letting go is still a regular struggle.
I’m starting this blog as I release my traditional career, one full of value and accomplishment, in favor of an opportunity to pursue an alternate path. I’m voluntarily quitting a stable income in a career with real potential- it is perhaps (this is up for debate) the most important thing I’ve ever tried to let go. To be certain, I do not view my career as a negative inhibitor, but rather as something that has been preventing me from fully exploring my complete range of interests. In many ways, abandoning this highly successful and traditional path requires similar courage to moving upwards on a difficult climb. Hopefully, exploring other passions in my life elevates me upwards on many levels, and I fully expect I will be required to repeat this mantra often in the coming months.
My hope is that this blog will serve as the primary vehicle to record my progress- in climbing, in training, in understanding the world and in understanding myself. Hopefully, my journey can also help you understand yours.
Welcome.
stickthefeeling 