Old Guard

Posted on March 3, 2013 by sticker1

I’m behind on posting, but not for lack of adventure. A week ago I was in Jackson, WY- fighting a nasty cold, loving some time with my lovely lady, and catching up with one of my Denali partners via a foot of Freshiez off of WYO 22.

Getting our fix at the Teton Ice Park.

Bryan @ Top of Glory, reasonable name…

“No officer, we are not hitch-hiking.”

This weekend I’m in Bozeman for much of the same. Despite not ice climbing much this year, this afternoon I was able to tick a line that has inspired me since my second ever trip to Hyalite in 2009. The Sceptre gets WI5 in the guidebook, but at this point in the season it climbs like a stiff grade 4. I felt really fortunate to share the beautiful weather yesterday with two wonderful climbers (one of whom I had known only by reputation)- thanks to Marko and Echo for being such strong and inspiring partners.

Sceptre is in fat. (Photo: Echo Oak)

Top out stoke. (Photo Echo Oak)

Echo, burning laps.

The Scepter is adjacent to The Mummy II, which makes for a nice warmup. The title though relates to one of the coolest parts of my Saturday. I’m warming up on top-rope in the foreground, but in the back you can see The Sceptre- with someone else climbing on it. I had noticed two older gentlemen and a younger guy approach the climb before I left the ground and I assumed the younger guy would lead it. I should have known better- there is an old guard in Hyalite, guys who have lived and climbed here for over 40 years. They are responsible for most of the established climbs, most of the mentorship, and most of the special energy and spirit that this place has.

In good company.

I had only heard of Pat Callis from guidebook descriptions, but those guidebook descriptions credit him with first ascents as early as 1973. Pat was out climbing yesterday, I’m guessing he is in his mid-60s, and leading The Sceptre as confidently as most people his age discuss bond investments or board a flight to Paris. He was also mentoring the younger man in his party, as I’m sure Pat has done for countless other Montana climbers. I found the climbing challenging and wasn’t entirely sure I’d finish things cleanly. Climbing is a beautiful equalizer, and also equally accessible- if you want to do it, take care of your body, and are humble enough to learn- there are very few limits on what you can accomplish. The climbing community in Montana is riddled with the old guard, and I’m privileged to be around them.

Elves

Posted on December 30, 2012 by sticker1

(I’m behind on posting, welcome to catching up on the adventure)

A few weeks ago I met some people at the Bozeman Ice Festival that really know how to have fun. Despite going to Australia this week (oh yeah, didn’t see that coming did you?), a spontaneous visit to Salt Lake City was on order for Christmas weekend. A huge thank you to Sarah, Peter, and Brit for being amazing hosts. While Salt Lake is known for Mormons and the Wasatch front, elves are apparently a big deal too:

Cousins Peter and Brit show off the latest fashions (exterior door shown for scale).

I rolled in on Saturday afternoon, and after a quick hike to check on ice climbing conditions, Sarah and I joined in the Santa pub-crawl mayhem.

Well… someone needed to step up and be Pimp Santa.

Despite a great outfit, I bailed on the pub crawl relatively early with thoughts of ice climbing on my mind. The ice was surprisingly poorly formed and thin, and while Sarah and I ticked 3 of 4 pitches on “The Great White Icicle” (WI 3, 4p), eventually my judgement won over, and we headed for Brit’s hot tub and a fun little jam session with a few other folks.

Thinner than it looked.

Sarah isn’t as into backcountry skiing as I am, but fortunately she’s got some great friends. Matt C, Hasen, Tyler, and Matt X, thanks so much for letting me join the fun. It was dumping powder in the Wasatch, and while that pushed us on lower angle slopes, we still had an amazing day of skiing. Sarah had lunch on the table when we rolled home, and suddenly my cello was in hand while Matt C sang Talking Heads.

Doing due diligence in the avy pit.

Sweetness.

Christmas Eve finished cooking a stellar meal with Sarah, then a small gathering of friends hosted by one of her former professors.

My drive home featured dry roads, and clear skies, so the hours passed quickly. Even with all of the outdoor sports centered in Salt Lake, I’ve spent very little time there. With friends like these, I suspect I’ll be back soon.

Somewhere south of Dillon, MT.

Festival

Posted on December 12, 2012 by sticker1

“We seek festival community because our own communities are dead.” (Nizlopi)

It’s both true and false- Missoula is a vibrant mountain community with a fairly quiet crew of ice climbers. Fair to say, the Bozeman Ice Festival brings us to life, and I was excited to have friends from Missoula to share one of my favorite places with. While I missed the festival last year, it seemed like JoJo and the regular crew really stepped up to take the Bozeman Festival to the next level. The only problem was, with everyone wanting to join the fun, open climbs were a little illusive…

Saturday.

Full of stoke, Conor D. and I got after it Saturday morning, only to find 18 people in line for Champagne Sherbet and Champagne Slot (which are both forming nicely). So we hiked. A lot. Finally we gave up on finding some more elusive climbs and headed for the Genesis. Some top rope laps at G1 left us feeling like we had at least done something, and we followed the festival down the canyon as the light faded.

This years festival included a Saturday night party built around an outdoor mixed competition at the Emerson center. Credit to Marko P., Craig P., and many others for construction and route setting. Complete with outdoor firepits, live music, and beer vendors, Saturday night was a very good time.

Stephanie Maureau- climbs harder than almost all the boys- crushing it.

Bozeman hardman Whit Magro straddling a free handing log 50′ up and 20′ across the overhanging traverse.

Sunday Conor and I linked up with a few other Missoula boys (Cole, Josh, Mack, and Cory) and took over the amplitheater. I’m still a terrible mixed climber, and was just as happy for Conor to put up the rope on the mixed line just left of “Thin Chance” (which was in, but a little thin for my shaky lead head). We did both lines, then a lap on Climbs on the Left- by no means a banner day, but I really don’t mind easing back into ice season.

Conor, getting pumped.

Lots for me to remember.

Sunday night I felt fortunate to be invited to dinner with a few new friends who work for Grivel North America. It might have been more prudent to head for Missoula on Sunday night, but these connections are one of the reasons it’s so fun to come to a festival. We enjoyed perfect conversation over perfect food, and my week has felt a little richer because my circle of connections in this strange frozen circle is just a little larger. The additional time was well worth the speedy drive back on Monday morning.

This place is always spectacular.

Telling

Posted on December 2, 2012 by sticker1

Despite a dismal forecast on Saturday, I coerced Ky into heading out to check on ice conditions in Finley Creek, just north of Missoula. Last year, this area provided an important training ground for getting regular time on my tools. It’s been really warm this fall and while I was hoping the north aspect would hold at least semi-formed climbs, I really wasn’t sure what to expect. The photos tell it all-

The black streak is where the GrainEater is supposed to be- taken yesterday December 2, 2012.

This is the GrainEater in early season, but fully climbable conditions- taken Nov. 27, 2011.

This was taken from the same vantage point (approximately), on Nov. 27, 2011. While this is thin compared to what the climb would be, it was fully climbable at this point in the season last year.

There was almost no trace of ice in Finley Creek on Sunday- a few wisps of ice hinted at the location of the climbs, but nothing that even resembled a “route”. It seems reasonable to say that we are 3-4 weeks behind last season in route growth. We spent most of our time hiking in a 40 degree rain storm. Ski conditions are marginal, and “unseasonably warm” almost seems like a misnomer because it’s hard to be sure what season we are actually in. It sure seems like the planet is telling us something.

Several hundred vertical feet and a two miles up the canyon we finally found some semblence of winter, but only barely. I made it to the lake in trail running shoes.

Whether or not there is ice in the hills around Missoula in December isn’t alone an indicator of climate change- I won’t pretent that for a minute, but with plenty of other evidence around, it seems plausible there might be some connection to my little backyard ice playground. The lack of societal concern about climate change is thoroughly frightening to me.

Last night I saw a I saw a short piece from the Rachel Maddow show that aired just after the elections last month (really, click the link). I couldn’t agree with her more. For all the junk science, and political posturing we’ve been exposed to, and which I’ll try not to propagate here, I think she hits the nail on the head- “There are real problems in the world. There are real knowable facts in the world. Let’s accept those and talk about how we might approach our problems differently. Let’s move on from there.”

(Ed. note- This was not the post that I had aspirations of writing, but I wanted to get the photos up. More on this train of thought hopefully later this week)

The Winds

Posted on May 31, 2012 by sticker1

10 years ago I went to the Wind River range with two high school friends in search of “adventure”- suffice to say we found it. We spent 12 days on our own in the range, and walked over 85 miles. I drove back to Chicago in love with mountains, and determined to learn how to climb them.

A few days ago I made a new friend at the climbing gym, and we realized that we shared common dreams of that place in Wyoming. I haven’t been back since that first trip, but the Winds have been in the back of my head for every climb and every trip since. If you had told me then of all the places I would climb in the following 10 years, and how those early determinations would shape my life, I probably wouldn’t have believed you.

One of my early trad leads in a quarry outside of Stirling, Scotland. 2005

I’m missing a few photos in digital format from some other early experiences (Granite Peak, Montana and the Weminuche Wilderness in Colorado), but it was fun to dig up more of the early inspiration.

Few places inspire like the desert- Canyonlands National Park, Utah. 2005.

Loving the granite bouldering at Groom Creek, Arizona. 2007.

One of my first Cascade summits, Mt. Colchuck via the North Buttress Couloir. Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington. 2008

Sometimes I wonder why burn all the gas, why suffer all the training, but when I think of the friendships built, the photos taken, and the experience shared, there’s no doubt it’s worth it.

Flying prayer flags for a friend on the summit of Denali. Denali National Park, Alaska. 2009.

Eyes wide open on my first mixed climb. Hyalite Canyon, Montana. 2009.

Learning open-hand strength in Squamish, British Columbia. 2010.

The weather looks rough again this weekend and I’m fighting to keep my stoke up. Tonight I got looking through a bunch of old photos- it’s fun to see where this journey has taken me, so I thought I’d share a quick history.

Stoked to ride an elephant, on Elephants Perch- Sawtooth Wilderness, Idaho. 2010.

Sometimes this feels a little lunatic- leading Lunatic Fringe, Yosemite National Park, California. 2011.

Finding far flung goods in Seusca, Colombia. 2011.

Taking it to the next level on Cleopatra’s Needle, Hyalite Canyon, Montana. 2012.

I think I’m finally ready to say it- I’m ready to go back to the Winds. Hopefully my new friend can join me, but if nothing else, I can thank her for pushing the idea back to the front of my mind.

Stoke the Coals

Posted on March 12, 2012 by sticker1

I haven’t been able to get out and climb much in the last 3 weeks. For sure, I haven’t been wasting my time, I’ve been learning, getting inspired, working hard, and getting humbled, and while that is all very good and very important, it isn’t climbing and being outside as I’d like.

I hope I never get tired of this view. Off the top of Weedeater, again.

It helps though, when life sneaks up on you like that- helps you notice that when the clutter of everything else dies down for just a minute, that the coals are still burning. Under whatever piles on top of your life, there are some of those things that are still burning. By Thursday last week, I knew I needed to stoke the coals. Work eased up just enough for me to take an afternoon off for another solo trip into Finley and swing my tools a bit.

Possibly the end of the season in Finley. Things are looking thin...

I spent Friday banging my head around in the crawlspace, but I knew the weather on Saturday was not to be missed. Grateful to have my friend Jamie to call, he and I made solid plans to head back to Mill Creek. As promised, the weather was unbelievable, and the climbing was ready to fire. T-shirts were only required to prevent sunburn. I don’t remember the last time I had looked forward to rock climbing quite that much, or as much as I do as I writing this. Jamie is another solid climber who loves to “get on it”- pushing me to be the stronger, braver climber that is still learning to explode upwards. We climbed much hard than I expected, and I’m pleased to say I was able to redpoint a number of quality sport routes.

Grateful for another solid partner to enjoy the sun with.

Fitting that Jamie and I finished Saturday with other new friends enjoying the warmth of a bonfire and the light of the full moon at a party just north of town. The coals are hot, and further climbing adventures are in the works. Life is good.

In The Arena

Posted on February 13, 2012 by sticker1

I was about 15 miles west of Bozeman and on the phone with my brother Friday afternoon when I noticed the road was solid ice. I ended the call just in time to see a 3-ton flatbed truck complete a 360 across two lanes of traffic about four cars ahead of me. I had been driving for 3 hours on my way to Bozeman to pick up Drew- we were supposed to head another 3 hours southeast for a big ice line in the Beartooth range, but somehow I was starting to have an icky feeling about the whole plan.

I picked up Drew, gear, and gas in Bozeman, and headed east into an increasing snowstorm. We had decided to drive to the highway cutoff, and make the call over dinner. Although both of us were stoked for the route we had picked, the thought of climbing a 3,500′ avalanche chute with a foot of fresh snow on it seemed plain stupid. We ate dinner, got back in the car, and drove back to Bozeman in the dark. While the turnaround was unsatisfying, we knew we had made the right call, and enjoyed a great conversation despite the hairy driving. Which left the question, what else were we going to do?

When Drew asked me what else I might want to climb, the first line that jumped to mind was Cleopatra’s Needle.

The mega classic in mega good shape.

The line is usually done in 2 or 3 pitches, can vary in difficulty from WI4-WI5+, and is a Hyalite mega classic. It was also the first “harder” ice line that really inspired me to learn the craft. Drew said it was in WI4 shape, and in lieu of getting our big line in the Beartooths, it seemed like just the thing to test us on Saturday.

It’s a long hike to the base of the route, and we felt committed to the challenge by the time we got there. That said, the crux pillar (which Drew encouraged me to lead) was obviously steeper and harder than anything I’ve climbed to date. The thing about pushing yourself is, you never know what you’ll accomplish until you put yourself in the arena and make a go of it. In ice climbing, that has some real consequences, but I knew that I could make good decisions, and back off if I had to. It was time to step in the arena of leading steep ice.

Fun in the sun with Drew leading pitch 1.

I’ve been thinking a lot about Teddy Roosevelts “Man in the Arena” speech lately. Often with my climbing, I’ve backed off under the auspicies of good decision making, and experience, but I’ve been frustrated not to push myself.

Entering the arena.

Playing for keeps.

Towards the top of the pitch, I ran out of gas. Just below easier terrain my hands started to cramp and fail, so I fired in a screw and sat on the rope. Certainly not my preferred style, but in the moment necessary. I’ve only sat on a screw on lead once before, and if I’m going to learn and progress, I need to fail more often, and that means pushing to the limit. After a long rest I topped out the column and built an anchor. Rather than climb easier terrain to the top, we decided to top rope the pillar, and spend more time on the steeps. It was a great day out, and strangely, there was almost more success in not climbing the pillar clean, the success was just in getting on something I knew would be really hard for me.

Sunday, still a bit sore, we went back to Genesis I, a wall of ice close to the car that offers a variety of terrain- low angle to super steep, and burned 3 top rope laps each on the steepest section we could find. It felt good to practice the craft.

On route looking down G1.

The drive home was uneventful, except for an unbelievable sunset. I love this state.

Satisfaction.

Sit Tight

Posted on January 22, 2012 by sticker1

I did not really get to play outside at all this weekend, that was unfortunate, especially because there was 3-5 feet of gorgeous fresh snow in the mountains to ski.

Oh yeah, there is a car under there... (taken after letting it melt for a day)

As I’ve mentioned before, my left foot is slowing me down, but in many other ways as well, this is a time for me to sit tight. I’m still just getting to know the people I feel comfortable going into the backcountry with. I’m still getting back to having some cash in the bank to play with. The weather hasn’t been compelling. I was selected to connect with the Missoula political community through an interesting group of people (the official website makes it seem cheesier than it actually is– but we’ll see how things go). I’m learning a lot about my job, about what my next job might be, and about how a job is related to making a living (because they are not the same thing). I might not like it, but this is a time where sitting tight is just the right thing to do for the moment.

I’ve been working hard to help heal my foot, so I didn’t get to swing my tools this weekend. After last weekend, and as I always do after ice climbing, I set out my screws to dry. They sit next to my bed, and next to the heater. I didn’t get around to putting them away for a few days but I realized I like seeing them when I wake up. I like seeing them when I don’t want to work out but know I should, or when I just spent 10 hours running around dusty, dirty jobsites. They motivate me, they remind me about that other place, and other thing that I do. They bring the focus back when I can’t make it out, when I have to sit tight.

Stay motivated.

They are elegant, simple things. I used to think I didn’t have enough ice screws, that I needed a few more before I could really get on “worthy” climbs with the few that I own. I have 10- 3 long ones, 3 medium ones, and 4 short ones, and this season I’m starting to realize that might be just enough for what I need. Thanks for the reminder, just a few more weeks my friends.

Passion

Posted on January 17, 2012 by sticker1

My friend Chris likes to remind himself (and me) that climbing is not his passion, but the relationships we form through climbing often are. I had a few great days of climbing this past weekend- working hard in the vertical seems to strip away the unimportant like nothing else can, and energize me for whatever comes next. ”Climbing gives us so much, but when it takes, it takes big.” (Mark Westman)

A number of my friends are hurting today, and while I didn’t have the pleasure of knowing Jack Roberts, his first ascents dance in my head and his partners have shown me the ropes. I was sad to read of his death this morning.

Polar Circus, one of the greatest routes in the Canadian Rockies. FFA Jack Roberts and Dale Bard. RIP Jack.

Climbing has given me some of my best friends and strongest experiences. It continually teaches me new things about myself and others, and enables me to give the best of myself to the world like few other things can. Speaking of those who have not come back from the mountains, they would always say “go”- may their final lesson to us all be not to settle for less than our very best.

This past Saturday night I was playing my bass with some people and feeling antsy. Talk to Hannah to learn she had almost recovered from her cold, so at the last minute we made plans to climb Sunday morning. Happily, I finally got to tick the Graineater (70m, WI4, 2p)- the local classic is exactly that, classic. A few photos:

View from the trail.

For being so close to home, the line is pleasantly NOT small.

Just off the belay on p2, and into the business...

Stoked to tick this one off.

“Don’t worry about what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive and do that. Because what the world needs are people who have come alive.” (Howard Thurman)

Hyalite

Posted on December 19, 2011 by sticker1

I’ve been in Bozeman since Saturday morning for a few days of ice before heading to Austin, Texas for some family holiday action tomorrow. Many of you know that tucked into the foothills outside of town, Hyalite Canyon holds one of the best ice climbing areas in the lower 48, and I’ll take any excuse to get here. It’s hard to describe just how special this place is- gorgeous, steeped in the history of the sport, and full of community. I haven’t had the opportunity to write about Hyalite on this blog yet but this place has been one of my favorite winter playgrounds in the past few years, the words really fall short tonight.

Peeking around the corner into the goodness.

I’m staying with my friends Drew and Marko while I’m in Bozeman. Pete Tapley is in the kitchen, we chatted with Jack Tackle in the parking lot yesterday, Renny Jackson is in town for a few pitches. The legends abound. Stories are shared, climbs are sent, and yet most folks are really fairly humble- it’s an incredible scene to be a part of. My friend Colin drove over from Portland to Missoula on Friday, and we drove to Bozeman on Saturday together. Getting a late start, we happened to meet Jack and Doug Chabot at the base of Magically Delicious, and I got to wrap up a lead on this classic mixed climb that scared the pants off me a few years ago when I belayed Colin up it. I also ran it out on Elevator Shaft, but Colin wasn’t feeling well so we called it an early day.

Feeling the magic on Magically Delicious.

Sunday I headed out with Drew and Marko for a lap on Genesis II and Through Four More. Genesis was taken, so I jumped on the lead for “More” without a warmup. I got the send, but didn’t really feel comfortable until a few top rope laps later. That night we took a walk back to check conditions on RocketBoy, one of the last great unclimbed “all Free” ascents left in the Canyon.

It's all about the triangle shape on Through Four More.

Headed down the rappel lines.

We enjoyed the sun, and I enjoyed great company with friends I hadn’t seen in far too long.

Drew, showing us all how to stem.

Marko taking in the sun.

My favorite times though are at the end of the day- the canyon is quiet, and the fading light hangs delicately on the canyon rim until the stars come out. Being at the top of a climb at twilight is truly remarkable. Today I did some work and worked on Christmas in the morning, but had the itch to see one more sunset in the canyon. I took off around 2pm for a few solo laps on “The Fat One” an easy ice lead that I had struggled with on my third trip here two years ago.

The Fat One, without anyone around on a Monday afternoon.

I'm missing a rope behind me (the skinny line is a tree).

It was my first experience climbing ice without wearing a rope, no rope or belay on the way up- just a tag line in my backpack for the rappel off. Somehow, it was just what I wanted to do. I was in complete control the whole time, and enjoyed getting on the route with no one around. Completely alone at the end of the day in one of the most beautiful places I know is a great way to wrap up a few awesome days- many thanks for stellar partners and splitter weather.

The colors hint at the richness of our experience here.

stickthefeeling

"… let the baggage go."

Category Archives: Ice Climbing