Monthly Archives: May 2014

Magical Mystery Tour

So what of the other 5 days of my recent Alaska trip? We left our intrepid adventurers here:

The cushiest hitch-hiking spot ever (no we didn't hitch in the white truck).

The cushiest hitch-hiking spot ever (no we didn’t hitch in the white truck).

baking in the heat just below Hatcher Pass, trying to assemble the next piece of the plan. Martin was the best possible partner, because he kept saying “where can we have the most fun?” Fortunately, I had the answer.

Kudos to Josh who picked us up roadside, and drove us all the way to Anchorage airport. On the way I booked a cheap rental car, and called another friend:

Mackenzie. On-sites hosting like a boss.

Mackenzie. Hosts last minute like a boss.

My last trip to see Mackenzie was one of the first adventures on this blog, and I frankly I couldn’t wait to visit the amazing corner of the world she lives in again. Along the way, we got some Thai food in the middle of nowhere:

Don't miss this.

Don’t miss this.

and caught rare views of the deepest wild around:

Mt Wrangell, from the Richardson Highway.

Mt Wrangell, from the Richardson Highway.

On a clear spring day, Valdez, Alaska might be the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. Having left Anchorage early on Wednesday morning, there were still time for turns at Thompson Pass that afternoon:

Stoke on.

Stoke on.

Are we really here? Doing this?

Are we really here? Doing this?

Martin, doing THAT.

Martin, doing THAT.

So I had been itching for a hard core wilderness adventure. Conditions as they were though, it just wasn’t right. I’ve never really gone “vacation backcountry skiing” (or know that existed)- but in spring, in Valdez, that’s the ticket.

Apres ski- Valdez style.

Apres ski- Valdez style.

Staying with Mackenzie, Ben, Hope, and Matt (HUGE THANKS), we had a real kitchen, boat rides after skiing, and a chance to connect with some of the local contingent- just 30 minutes drive from the top of the pass.

Trip highpoint: Girls Mountain. Amazing turns, amazing place.

Just so good.

I work with Martin, and while I’ve never traveled with a co-worker on this scale I couldn’t ask for a better partner. Our razor towards fun served us well, and hope we can share more adventures in the future.

Harbor-side views from The Fat Mermaid...

Harbor-side views from The Fat Mermaid…

Wild harvested muscles over an open fire in Prince William Sound.

Wild harvested mussels over an open fire in Prince William Sound.

Sometimes, you can’t accept what’s presented to you- and sometimes it’s wiser to jump straight into what’s available. We didn’t end up doing anything that we planned. We had a ton of fun, and embraced the truly special place that Alaska continues to hold in my heart. I couldn’t ask for any more.

Valdez Multi-sport day: skiing, rock climbing, beer drinking, and swimming...

The perfect way to dive into this place.

 

 

The Bomber

talkeetna mountains, bomber traverse

Yup, it’s Alaska! Slogging to the Mint Glacier Hut.

Straining against the endless glacial white, my eyes played tricks on me. How hard was it to miss a whole B-29 crash? Day 2 of the Bomber Traverse in the Talkeetna Mountains outside Anchorage, and we were 4 miles up the glacier looking for the namesake of the route. So far the weather had been tame, but a foggy snow drizzle was making our search more challenging.

Bomber Traverse, Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska

With great respect for the 6 casualties. 1957 B-29 Bomber crash site.

We found the crash, pulled up our carpets, and slid for the hut. The snow was thankfully forgiving in the flat light, and we were excited for the first real turns of the trip.

It wasn’t actually supposed to work this way. Not really at all. Looking at the forecast and Snotel data in the Seattle airport our original plans just didn’t make sense. The Eklutna Traverse had almost zero snow for the first 2000′ vertical on the route. With some awesome support from AMH, Joe Stock, and my friends Drew and Lindzey, we re-packed with 5 days of food and a loose plan for the Bomber Traverse in the Talkeetna mountains. If the snow was as good as we heard tell, we’d stay in the range as long as we could. If it wasn’t, we’d get a good workout carrying heavy packs.

The Mint Glacier Hut.

The Mint Glacier Hut.

The trip starts and ends at the Gold Mint Trailhead on Hatcher Pass just north of Anchorage. It cuts a circle through the Talkeetna mountains, stopping at 2 huts maintained by the Mountaineering Club of Alaska and 1 hut that belongs to the AAC. Total distance is about 20 miles, and total elevation gain is approximately 5,000 ft total.  There is boundless good skiing terrain around each of the 3 huts, and the scenery is stunning.

Bomber Traverse, ski mountaineering, alaska, talkeetna mountains

Sunset at the Bomber Hut.

We had amazing weather and navigating the route was straightforward. Warm conditions and ample food meant there was little “suffering” in the way that most Alaskan adventure warrant.

gear drying, ski mountaineering, bomber traverse, talkeetna mountains

Hut life.

Bomber Traverse, Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska, ski mountaineering

Its not mountaineering until you put your skis on your back…

Unfortunately, the snow was boot hard in the morning with a fast midafternoon transition to full-on slush. Warm temps meant sweaty feet and blisters. Sunscreen consumption was far higher than rationed. While the glaciers are clearly melting, there are few cravasses meaning that the ropes and harnesses we brought amounted to training weight as well. While I certainly cannot complain about any of it, our “ski trip” amounted to mostly touring, sweating and eating.

Endless daylight works up an appetite.

Hut life.

Did I mention blue skies?

Did I mention blue skies?

We started on Sunday, but by Monday night we were already scheming other plans. The soft afternoon snow meant that exiting the range needed to happen earlier in the day than later. Despite the finest amenities of the trip at the Snowbird hut (really, you gotta stay there) we pushed past with just a few photos and a shaky plan for the next move.

Nicest latrine in the world?

Nicest latrine in the world?

archangel creek, talkeetna mountains, bomber traverse

Looking back down Archangel Creek.

There’s gotta be more snow somewhere in Alaska and thankfully I’ve got more than a few great friends in the great “not so white” north…

Credit where due: again huge thanks to Joe Stock, and his excellent website for plenty of information and inspiration. Truly the patriarch of modern Alaska skiing. Check out the site, buy the book, hire the man if you need to. He is the source.