There is no shortage of the ice climbing goods in Valdez… and for having three days I’d say we’ve gotten a solid helping of the finest available.
Category Archives: Traveling
Valdez – Prelude
After a healthy night of travel, sleep deprived ranting, and driving through more than a few avalanche zones, we’ve arrived safely in Valdez, Alaska. This place does not disappoint. Full photos will be included in the final trip report but today was a warmup. Two 90m pitches of WI2-4 provided an enjoyable introduction to the area. Perfect weather, partners, and place to crash in an unbelievable setting- not much more I could ask for… Tomorrow should be big.
Los Angeles
(written 02.08.2011 in LA, posted 02.09.2011 in PDX)
I was in Los Angeles for work today, giving a presentation that in some ways is a showcase of the most significant achievements of my career. Some of you know that I spent a lot of time here last year to figure out that a friendship was not meant to be a romance. There are memories of this place, some warm, some not. I’m particularly happy to say that last evening found that friendship, and others, intact and moving forwards.
This visit has been different- my professional obligations give me more focus and purpose, and there are a number of wonderful people at the company office in LA that I sincerely admire, and will miss working with. After giving a practice run of my presentation over lunch, I spent a bit of time sharing my traveling plans with people. As has been the case with most of the other employees I have talked to, people are understanding of my opportunity, and perhaps just a little jealous of what I am up to.
In a way, there is more sadness here than I expected, certainly remnants of a failed romance, but also of a career that seems to be getting snatched from its highest point in the sky. I nailed my presentation earlier tonight, and was excited to see other developments in my field. I’m proud of what I’ve done as a professional in the sustainable building industry, and perhaps I didn’t fully account for the difficulty involved in quitting my job on a positive note.
This city has an energy and a style somehow seems to resonate with me. I often considered (as probably many would) Los Angeles to be the opposite place of where I might feel at home. Massive highways, unfriendly bike infrastructure, and ostentatious displays of wealth certainly don’t feel welcoming, but on the other side, I see people having fun, a rich history of places, and feel a buzz of unusual purpose in the air. The people who are here, are stoked to be here. It’s a stark change from the listless, jaded glaze so common in Portland.
The mantra returns- it’s time to let the baggage go and stick the feeling. I’ve got another 40 years to work, and this time is important.
Stick the Feeling
“Let go of the baggage, and get that feeling to stick.”
This was one of the earliest, and most important lessons I’ve learned from moving over vertical rock and ice. Just below the crux (hardest) moves of any climb, this is the single greatest challenge separating the climber from completing the ascent. Fear, doubt, worry and other negative elements- are all forms of baggage, and will only weigh you down, preventing your upward progress. Somewhat unsurprisingly, the act of letting go is still a regular struggle.
I’m starting this blog as I release my traditional career, one full of value and accomplishment, in favor of an opportunity to pursue an alternate path. I’m voluntarily quitting a stable income in a career with real potential- it is perhaps (this is up for debate) the most important thing I’ve ever tried to let go. To be certain, I do not view my career as a negative inhibitor, but rather as something that has been preventing me from fully exploring my complete range of interests. In many ways, abandoning this highly successful and traditional path requires similar courage to moving upwards on a difficult climb. Hopefully, exploring other passions in my life elevates me upwards on many levels, and I fully expect I will be required to repeat this mantra often in the coming months.
My hope is that this blog will serve as the primary vehicle to record my progress- in climbing, in training, in understanding the world and in understanding myself. Hopefully, my journey can also help you understand yours.
Welcome.





