Category Archives: Missoula

Passion

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My friend Chris likes to remind himself (and me) that climbing is not his passion, but the relationships we form through climbing often are.  I had a few great days of climbing this past weekend- working hard in the vertical seems to strip away the unimportant like nothing else can, and energize me for whatever comes next.  “Climbing gives us so much, but when it takes, it takes big.” (Mark Westman)

A number of my friends are hurting today, and while I didn’t have the pleasure of knowing Jack Roberts, his first ascents dance in my head and his partners have shown me the ropes.  I was sad to read of his death this morning.

Polar Circus, one of the greatest routes in the Canadian Rockies. FFA Jack Roberts and Dale Bard. RIP Jack.

Climbing has given me some of my best friends and strongest experiences.  It continually teaches me new things about myself and others, and enables me to give the best of myself to the world like few other things can.  Speaking of those who have not come back from the mountains, they would always say “go”- may their final lesson to us all be not to settle for less than our very best.

This past Saturday night I was playing my bass with some people and feeling antsy.  Talk to Hannah to learn she had almost recovered from her cold, so at the last minute we made plans to climb Sunday morning.  Happily, I finally got to tick the Graineater (70m, WI4, 2p)- the local classic is exactly that, classic.  A few photos:

View from the trail.

For being so close to home, the line is pleasantly NOT small.

Just off the belay on p2, and into the business...

Stoked to tick this one off.

“Don’t worry about what the world needs.  Ask what makes you come alive and do that.  Because what the world needs are people who have come alive.”  (Howard Thurman)

Like We Stole It

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One of the many posts I received for my last birthday still stands out to me- “Drive this year like you stole it, ’cause you did.”  Even as life settles back into a more familiar rhythm, this idea sticks with me.  Today felt a little like we stole it– or perhaps, like we got far more than we expected to get.

So I live in Montana and it’s January.  Ice climbing, powder skiing, and winter camping debauchery are the expected activities, but when you have the right partner and a little bit of beta, sometimes you can get far, far more.

Welcome to clipping bolts while basking in the sun and playing with dogs:

South facing dark rock teaches an important lesson about solar heat gain...

Steve and I had joked about climbing outside sometime this week while pulling plastic at the local sweatshop last weekend.  I was doubtful, but when my work schedule cleared off, and the forecast seemed to cooperate, Steve knew it was time for another visit to Mill Creek.  Unlike last time, the sun was bright, the wind was absent, and the stoke was high. On the walk in, we joked that we might only get a few pitches, but once back in the canyon, Steve said “you wanna hit that four pitch thing I was talking about?”

Hell Yes.

So that’s what we did.  Off the couch, onsite (for me), Steve and I enjoyed four glorious, warm, sunny pitches of bolt clipping and having fun (5.10b, 5.10d, 5.11a, 5.9).  We rapped back down about 20 minutes before the sun dropped behind the ridge.

Steve making the most of the ledge atop pitch 3. Nice work on the crux buddy!

I got out of work, the weather was good, had a solid partner and beautiful terrain just an hour from my door?  Feels kinda like we stole it…. or got far more than we deserved.  I feel especially fortunate to have met Steve, who seems to be my favorite type of climber- smart, strong, and motivated, but who still puts having a good time at the top of the priorities list.  Thanks dude.

Winter in Montana isn't all dark and cold after all.

Re-Motivate

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I don’t know, or care, if the title is a word.  Since getting back from Bozeman last Thursday morning, I’ve been low on motivation.  Perhaps the adrenaline associated with moving to Missoula finally wore off, or that the pain in my left foot is finally strong enough to seriously slow me down.  I spent the first day of 2012 with Hannah at Jerry Johnson hot springs, just over the Idado border- not a bad way to ring it in.

The New Year looks pretty good.

I just gotta jump into this year.

I do know that of the holidays, New Years Day and Thanksgiving are the ones that matter the most to me.  New Years (now) is a time to re-motivate, to plan, and dream big dreams about the coming year.  Thanksgiving is a time to reflect, appreciate, and respect how what may have been decided over New Years may or may not have gone down.  Strangely enough, while my Thanksgiving was full of gratitude, my New Years is somewhat absent of the motivation that I normally associate with this time of year.

Thankfully, I’ve spent this week hosting an awesome visitor in Missoula-  Jess, from the fabulous Strangled Darlings, came out to visit.  Her cheer, and desire to understand this place that I enjoy so much, made it an active week despite my low motivations.

If you come to Missoula, this may become mandatory.

Highlights included some great jamming, a carousel ride, trivia night at FLBC, and a day trip up to see the Missions and Flathead Lake.

So good to see a bit of Portland out in the Montana field.

Some of the view that first tempted me to Montana- the Missions.

For whatever lack of motivation I feel this year, I realized this on my hike yesterday: the most important thing to do with my life this year is not worry too much about it.

“Today isn’t special. We aren’t special until or unless we make ourselves so. And everyone’s journey is one day shorter. Did you use this day?” (attribution withheld out of respect for respect for the speaker)

Tomorrow is as full of opportunity as you make it.

Even Better

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I spent most of 2011 traveling, climbing, having fun, and being with people I cared about.  I didn’t have to work, I had few if any responsibilities, and in review I’m pretty happy to say that it was the best year yet.  I rang in 2012 swing dancing to a live big band with a good portion of downtown Missoula as part of the First Night festivities- credit to Hannah for dragging me onto the dance floor, and credit to my friend and co-worker Andy for showing  some serious swing moves.

Enjoying a very tight band, and I didn't have to play!

One thing I’m sure of though, is that is only gets better.  I’m working, I have limited means, and I’m in a place which is less accessible to everywhere else- but somehow, all of those things seem like factors that are going to enrich my experience rather than detract from it.

I may not know exactly how yet, but 2012 is going to be even better... (yeah the photo is blurry, but the feeling is spot on.

New Years Day and Thanksgiving are the two major holidays that really mean something to me.  I got up this morning and biked over to the hills just behind the University and hiked up to the University M that is built into the hillside.  Something about the first light on the first morning is a good time to get inspired, and I hadn’t seen the city from that vantage yet.  What are you going to do to make 2012 the best year yet?  I’m not sure, but I got plans… stay tuned.

Missoula, on the first morning of 2012, from "The M" on Mt. Sentinel.

 

The Question

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I didn’t really plan for another amazing weekend, but it just kinda happened. Darn.

Friday night: Potluck with familiar friends.
Saturday morning: last chance rock climbing with a super strong new partner (who lives across the street). Unfortunately the temperature refused to climb above freezing and the sun didn’t come out, so our hands were numb after one route. Many thanks for getting out Steve!

I was happy to meet and climb with Steve, but not so happy about the temps...

Saturday evening: Show and Tell Birthday. Some parties you bring presents, but this one, you bring yourself, ready to share your best.

Reasons show and tell is awesome- nose flute. Some assistance required.

Saturday night proper: Mad Men party. Dress shirts got washed. The tux jacket came out. The dress shoes were unearthed. By my own admission, I looked damn good.
Sunday morning: ice climbing at Finley Creek with a familiar friend and a new friend. Many thanks Hannah and Jamie!

Axes are for swinging!

Jamie cruises through his first ice pitch in two years.

Sunday night: Mexican food and movies.

This is how ice climbing days are supposed to end.

Really, this is what my life looks like?

On a more serious note, I got my first taste this season of a question. It’s the same question I’m always out to answer, the same question that the mountain never stops asking. In climbing, but particularly in ice climbing where the hazards are particularly real, there is a single important question- do you have it? The question came to me not because I am a great ice climber, or because I was on a hard route, but simply due to circumstance. The ice was thin, the screws were striking air, I am still getting my “lead head” on for the season, and the route got a little steep. Suddenly, there it was, while I was hanging off my tools- do you have it Skander?

Out looking for an answer...

Facing, and answering this question, is one of the most rewarding parts of climbing, and the more serious the question, the more rewarding the answer. It is not uncommon to hear people who climb regularly, and push themselves climbing, describe the experience as “clarifying.” We climb because we learn more about ourselves in doing it. Even when the answer is “no,” and we back off and go home, we learn about ourselves. We learn to respect our failures, and learn from them- and when the answer is yes, we learn about our strengths, and the fallacies that our minds would like us to believe but that our hearts simply will not accept. The moment of doubt was brief, but it was a taste of that singular important question and reminds me I am excited for this season. “The mind is primary,” it is the most important muscle to train- Sunday was a good day to get just a little, incrementally, stronger.

My room, after another stellar weekend in Missoula.

Going Local

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It’s the title of the book currently sitting next to my bed, and a pretty good description of my weekend.  I haven’t been out for climbing or skiing adventure in almost a month, but as “going local” has been the theme of many things about my move to Missoula, this weekend was about going local for some of my favorite activities.

Love your local goods. The Graineater (WI4, 200') at Finley Creek.

New fact: I live 24.6 miles by car (or bike), and 75 minutes of walking from a 200′ WI4, now in conditions for ice climbing.  WOOT.  Finley Creek should be an excellent training ground for the season.  Even after the fact that last weekend ended in an enormous pool of turkey blood, Hannah was game to play with more sharp implements and try ice climbing for the first time.  We did not climb the aforementioned route, but I did enjoy sharing some basic knowledge of ice climbing with an enthusiastic friend, as well as get a little practice in myself and check out what I found were some fantastic local ice lines.  We had a blast, and I look forward to heading back soon.

Studying the route before swinging the tools saves energy.

Hips in, arms straight, trust the feet- Hannah getting the moves together.

Sunday morning my housemate (and landlord) invited me out with a few folks to explore what early season backcountry skiing might look like.

The positive: we got up and out in the morning, the weather was perfect, and I connected with some new potential ski partners.

Gearing up for a long road slog. (Photo: Rachel Gooen)

The negative: there wasn’t actually enough snow to ski, but enough to get the truck stuck, and have to skin a really long way up the road.  As a sign of the first ski day of the season, I have no clue where my pole baskets are- these are the problems that pop up after a major move (I packed them strategically, somewhere…).  So I improvised:

$2.50 in duct tape and some cardboard at the gas station.

They make funny prints, but they do work! (Photo: Rachel Gooen)

It was at least a workout, and a good look at some backcountry terrain near St. Mary’s peak.

Lots of slogging. (Photo: Rachel Gooen)

Hopefully there will be more snow next time.

Missoula, Montana

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It’s the city I live in now. All my stuff is here, I have an apartment, an address, a roommate, and the start of a community. The bedframe that was lashed to the roof of my car did NOT become airborne. The front left bearing assembly on my car did NOT fall apart. After a little rain in Oregon (surprise surprise), the storm that was chasing me did NOT catch up. The only thing I managed to break was the glass sheet for my work table, but that’s not so bad (it’s already moved 3,000 miles with me…)

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Well, I have less stuff now, right?

When I came out in October, it was a beautiful late fall- with the trees in full color and a fresh loamy smell in the air. It feels a lot more like winter these days, and the snow on the ground has me excited to get back in my skiboots.

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Just a few more inches before it's ripe to huck the cliff.

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Great views coming down the pass into Montana.

I was very pleased to cover both mountain passes (on either side of Idaho) in daylight, and clear conditions. There is much to be thankful for and I am really excited to work on re-making a productive life for myself. More on those plans in the next few days, but for the moment I’m pretty tired.

As a second item- Congress is proposing some very interesting legislation that boils down to censorship of the internet. Read about it, think about it, consider how much you value free access to virtually any piece of information you want. Then consider letting your representative know how you feel, either for or against- these are two pieces of legislation worth paying attention to. Personally, I like being able to read and write whatever I feel like, and suspect you do too…

Does It Matter?

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It’s a blunt question.  Does it matter?  It’s also a very useful razor.  When applied to so much of the drama, heartache, and confusion we see in everyday life, I’ve found that asking this question is a surprisingly useful exercise.

I’m scared of how hard it’s going to be to start my own business.  Does it matter?  Being scared will get you nowhere, what matters is your willingness to do the work.

I’ve been moving this week- cleaning up in Portland, setting up in Missoula.  I have an address.  I wrote a rent check.  Some of my stuff that hasn’t seen daylight since March has been unpacked.  I’ve done loads and loads, and loads of laundry.  For all the uncertainty, I still feel this place embracing me, and that feels good- that’s what matters.  Here are a few photos from the move, let’s just say I didn’t pick up anyone from Rideshare…

Leaving Portland on Wednesday, with perfect vis on Mt. Hood

Lots of driving... lots and lots and lots.

Notice how low the back end of the Jetta is- the wheel well compression is visible. Also the lack of a front passenger.

Packed to the gills.

The bike is itching to roll again...

Landing, and stuff explosion.

Portland #3: Lessons

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After an unexpected full week in Montana, I drove back to Portland today.  The time in Missoula was just what I was looking for, and it’s exciting to say: I’ve found housing and a new community that seems to welcome me with open arms.  This time, the trip to Portland isn’t returning to home, but rather to bring my sense of home to Missoula.  Yep, that’s right, I’m moving- now that I’ve published it on the blog, I’m committed.

Typical Missoula sunset. Awesome.

When I decided to come back from South America, I knew I wanted to be in a smaller community.  I want to know my neighbors, live close to the outdoors, and try something different.  I don’t have a job lined up there, and I only have a few months of savings left, but somehow this simply feels like the right thing to do.

Where else can two adults have a perfectly stellar time riding a carousel without anyone raising an eyebrow? (Thanks for Hannah for a fun outing!)

More than just my belongings, I look forward to bringing many important lessons with me from Portland to Missoula.

  • Be discerning about the people you spend your time with- your friends an excellent mirror for your character and direction in life.
  • In business, accountability is all that really matters.  Accountability=integrity=success.
  • Live your life on your terms and no one else’s- you are an adult, and you get to make the call on what that looks like.
  • Success is looking back with no regrets, and knowing the next thing you do will be the best thing yet.

I arrived tonight feeling very under the weather, so this post is shorter than I’d like.  Suffice to say it felt hard and scary to think of moving my stuff out of here, of leaving regular contact with so many wonderful friends behind.  This next step feels like the greatest adventure yet, and that doesn’t come without some discomfort.  I’ll look forward to seeing many people in my next few visits (I’m making two trips PDX<–>MSO), please be in touch if you are here in PDX.  A few photos from the week:

Even better than my beloved New Seasons...

Even Miss Rasa (daughter of my friends Jeremy and Crissie) gets involved with the recycling effort.