Monthly Archives: January 2012

Lolo Pass Backcountry Skiing Day 2

Got out for some backcountry skiing with solid partners in Ross and Gwen.  It was a warm, beautiful day, and as I will try to always do, here’s the video to our avalanche pit test, which I screwed up when I cut it (but that does say something about the snow stability).  On the video I mention we had a collapse at CT13, but I should have said CT14 (if you count and watch the video…).  Temps were warm (~35-40deg) and we were about 2 miles northwest of the Lolo Pass SnoPark (at an area I think called “the Gash”).

Slope aspect was 300deg northwest.
Slope angle was 26deg.
Strong layers observed at 30cm, 90cm, and 120cm.  Be careful out there!

Gwen gets down to get the scoop on avalanche conditions.

Ross, Gwen, and Willow ready for a beautiful day of turns.

About to exercise good judgement.

The Hard Way, Part 1

(been working on this post for a while, look forward to Part 2 in the next few days!)

“We have met the enemy, and he is us.” (Walt Kelly)

Everyone loves to talk about tough economic times, like the economy is a nebulous, undefined malignant force- like it’s not our fault or something that just came upon us.  Our economy is the product of what we have chosen, and what “the economy” does reflects the choices we have made.  For the bulk of the industrial revolution (including now), “the economy” has responded to “the market” which responds to “price signals.”  “Price signals” are based on what we buy; we create them (the price signals), we send them based on the choices that we make.  In a perverse twist of fate, “the market” has responded to an attitude that says “cheaper is better, easier is better, faster is better”- that attitude is our own.  Remember that the market is only responding to price signals that we sent, and thus, we ourselves have chosen to place a priority on faster, cheaper, and easier.  We as a people have failed to stand up for quality, we have failed to pay the true cost of the lives that we lead.  We have chosen not to take the hard way or do the hard work, and as a result we have a world that is buried in debt, smothered in pollution, and anchored in a feeling of helplessness.

My life has been different- when I learned to play music the biggest lesson was that good performance was the result of slow, deliberate, diligent practice.  In climbing, achievement has been the result of regular training and slow incremental progress.  Somehow when I look at our economic history I can’t help but notice that the “market signal” of cheaper, easier, faster has pushed us into a situation where the systems we have built will no longer sustain us.  Our food is engineered to be tasty, manufactured to be cheap, and retains the false appearance of being available and abundant.  “In 1950, 70% of food consumed in Montana was grown within the state… by 1989 it was 34%.”  Why?  Because cheap transportation costs and global competition made it easier and cheaper to buy imported food.  Now, as energy prices and health problems rise, the easy way has suddenly made it impossible to feed ourselves.

I work in designing and building houses, and every day I see houses that are built with a goal of turning a quick profit rather than providing a safe, durable, energy-efficient place for a family to make a home.  I feel fortunate to be working on these projects because the folks I work for understand building science, and usually get called in to fix other people’s mistakes.  Somehow, Americans came to believe that making a profit in the housing market was a given, and we are determined to preserve that fallacy.  A house can be a cheap shack, but a home involves science, time, investment, and care- these homes are rare, and I feel fortunate to get to be a part of them.  Somehow in our society real abundance isn’t very abundant at all.

Do we have the political will and cultural discipline to chose harder options?  Even if the Keystone XL pipeline provides 100 more years of oil, what’s the world going to look like in 2111?  I believe that if our society is to survive, it will have to learn to choose the harder way.  The easy choices were easy in the short term and disastrous in the long term.  How can we cultivate our society to think and consider a longer term vision?  We are not victims of what is available, we are victims of our own choices.  With everything that I’ve ever done in my life, I’ve found that real value is only the result of hard work and consistent long term investment.  This is a lesson that somehow I think much of America has missed.  The experiences playing music and climbing remind me that taking the hard road is worth it.

Make your choices count.
Consider where you spend every last dollar.
The only real boundaries or barriers to affecting system-wide change are the ones we create in our own minds.

“There are no shortcuts for hard work.”  (Mark Twight)

Sit Tight

I did not really get to play outside at all this weekend, that was unfortunate, especially because there was 3-5 feet of gorgeous fresh snow in the mountains to ski.

Oh yeah, there is a car under there... (taken after letting it melt for a day)

As I’ve mentioned before, my left foot is slowing me down, but in many other ways as well, this is a time for me to sit tight. I’m still just getting to know the people I feel comfortable going into the backcountry with. I’m still getting back to having some cash in the bank to play with. The weather hasn’t been compelling. I was selected to connect with the Missoula political community through an interesting group of people (the official website makes it seem cheesier than it actually is– but we’ll see how things go). I’m learning a lot about my job, about what my next job might be, and about how a job is related to making a living (because they are not the same thing). I might not like it, but this is a time where sitting tight is just the right thing to do for the moment.

I’ve been working hard to help heal my foot, so I didn’t get to swing my tools this weekend. After last weekend, and as I always do after ice climbing, I set out my screws to dry. They sit next to my bed, and next to the heater. I didn’t get around to putting them away for a few days but I realized I like seeing them when I wake up. I like seeing them when I don’t want to work out but know I should, or when I just spent 10 hours running around dusty, dirty jobsites. They motivate me, they remind me about that other place, and other thing that I do. They bring the focus back when I can’t make it out, when I have to sit tight.

Stay motivated.

They are elegant, simple things. I used to think I didn’t have enough ice screws, that I needed a few more before I could really get on “worthy” climbs with the few that I own. I have 10- 3 long ones, 3 medium ones, and 4 short ones, and this season I’m starting to realize that might be just enough for what I need. Thanks for the reminder, just a few more weeks my friends.

Passion

My friend Chris likes to remind himself (and me) that climbing is not his passion, but the relationships we form through climbing often are.  I had a few great days of climbing this past weekend- working hard in the vertical seems to strip away the unimportant like nothing else can, and energize me for whatever comes next.  “Climbing gives us so much, but when it takes, it takes big.” (Mark Westman)

A number of my friends are hurting today, and while I didn’t have the pleasure of knowing Jack Roberts, his first ascents dance in my head and his partners have shown me the ropes.  I was sad to read of his death this morning.

Polar Circus, one of the greatest routes in the Canadian Rockies. FFA Jack Roberts and Dale Bard. RIP Jack.

Climbing has given me some of my best friends and strongest experiences.  It continually teaches me new things about myself and others, and enables me to give the best of myself to the world like few other things can.  Speaking of those who have not come back from the mountains, they would always say “go”- may their final lesson to us all be not to settle for less than our very best.

This past Saturday night I was playing my bass with some people and feeling antsy.  Talk to Hannah to learn she had almost recovered from her cold, so at the last minute we made plans to climb Sunday morning.  Happily, I finally got to tick the Graineater (70m, WI4, 2p)- the local classic is exactly that, classic.  A few photos:

View from the trail.

For being so close to home, the line is pleasantly NOT small.

Just off the belay on p2, and into the business...

Stoked to tick this one off.

“Don’t worry about what the world needs.  Ask what makes you come alive and do that.  Because what the world needs are people who have come alive.”  (Howard Thurman)

Like We Stole It

One of the many posts I received for my last birthday still stands out to me- “Drive this year like you stole it, ’cause you did.”  Even as life settles back into a more familiar rhythm, this idea sticks with me.  Today felt a little like we stole it– or perhaps, like we got far more than we expected to get.

So I live in Montana and it’s January.  Ice climbing, powder skiing, and winter camping debauchery are the expected activities, but when you have the right partner and a little bit of beta, sometimes you can get far, far more.

Welcome to clipping bolts while basking in the sun and playing with dogs:

South facing dark rock teaches an important lesson about solar heat gain...

Steve and I had joked about climbing outside sometime this week while pulling plastic at the local sweatshop last weekend.  I was doubtful, but when my work schedule cleared off, and the forecast seemed to cooperate, Steve knew it was time for another visit to Mill Creek.  Unlike last time, the sun was bright, the wind was absent, and the stoke was high. On the walk in, we joked that we might only get a few pitches, but once back in the canyon, Steve said “you wanna hit that four pitch thing I was talking about?”

Hell Yes.

So that’s what we did.  Off the couch, onsite (for me), Steve and I enjoyed four glorious, warm, sunny pitches of bolt clipping and having fun (5.10b, 5.10d, 5.11a, 5.9).  We rapped back down about 20 minutes before the sun dropped behind the ridge.

Steve making the most of the ledge atop pitch 3. Nice work on the crux buddy!

I got out of work, the weather was good, had a solid partner and beautiful terrain just an hour from my door?  Feels kinda like we stole it…. or got far more than we deserved.  I feel especially fortunate to have met Steve, who seems to be my favorite type of climber- smart, strong, and motivated, but who still puts having a good time at the top of the priorities list.  Thanks dude.

Winter in Montana isn't all dark and cold after all.

Re-Blog: An Open Letter to Those Who Hate

This is one of the best things I’ve read on the internet in a long time. I’m scared of what I see in political discourse in our country, in conversations I hear on the street, and where I hear people cite information from.  I’m all for people having different ideas, different feelings, different priorities, and different motivations.  Fine- but every day I see and hear a deepening chasm of hate and ignorance that frankly scares the shit out of me.

Recently, I was asked what I felt it meant to be “progressive,” a word I am not afraid to use to describe myself. To me, being progressive is being humble, willing, and interested in taking a look in the mirror at yourself and learning from what you see.  It is virtually synonymous with being accountable.  I answered honestly, and realized after the fact that my answer has nothing to do with supporting traditionally liberal values- I’m sure there are folks who espouse traditionally conservative values that would aspire to that same reasoning.

That said, I think it does have something to do with basic human decency, responsibility to our whole communities (including the natural resources that sustain us, the diversity of our citizens, and the many resources that we indirectly benefit from), and a commitment to thinking carefully.  We need this, we need it now- how can you help?  How can I help (feel free to post ideas to comments)?

Lolo Pass Backcountry Skiing

Note, for the regular readers, this is a more technical post for conditions at Lolo pass.  Sorry to spam your inboxes, at least there are pretty photos and y’all know I’m being safe.

Making the best of a grey day. Looking at Montana from the Idaho border.

I skinned out of the Lolo pass recreation area to the peak just southeast of the parking lot- I was solo, so conservative skiing and careful avalanche investigation were the themes of the day.  I dug two avalanche pits, one on the south aspect, one on the north aspect.  Videos from my tests are below.  It’s been a long time since I dug a pit and may have forgotten some of the process, but there’s only one way to remind yourself.  In each case I picked a location that I thought was indicative of avalanche terrain, but in which I had immediate access to anchors and with minimal snow above me (essentially just below the rollover) in the event of a slide.

It seems like the snowpack is definitely more consolidated from the high avy danger earlier this week, but there are some prominent layers, wind affected snow, and wind affected loading.  I skied the north facing aspect on mostly +/-20 degree terrain back to the cross country trail, and felt no instability (granted, there wasn’t a whole lot of snow either!).  If you have feedback on how I can make my pit tests more useful, please post to comments.  This is about being safe and having fun.

The South aspect pit was dug in 100-108cm of snow, down to the dirt.  Slope angle was approx. 29 degrees, and the aspect was 160 degrees SSE.  Here’s the video.

The North asepct pit was dug in 130cm of snow, but not quite down to the dirt.  Slope angle was 33deg, and the aspect was 350deg N.
Video #1
Video #2

(at time of publishing the videos weren’t quite done uploading, so give it a minute…)

Courtesy of the Forest Service, a little below average, but good for checking your expectations.

Re-Motivate

I don’t know, or care, if the title is a word.  Since getting back from Bozeman last Thursday morning, I’ve been low on motivation.  Perhaps the adrenaline associated with moving to Missoula finally wore off, or that the pain in my left foot is finally strong enough to seriously slow me down.  I spent the first day of 2012 with Hannah at Jerry Johnson hot springs, just over the Idado border- not a bad way to ring it in.

The New Year looks pretty good.

I just gotta jump into this year.

I do know that of the holidays, New Years Day and Thanksgiving are the ones that matter the most to me.  New Years (now) is a time to re-motivate, to plan, and dream big dreams about the coming year.  Thanksgiving is a time to reflect, appreciate, and respect how what may have been decided over New Years may or may not have gone down.  Strangely enough, while my Thanksgiving was full of gratitude, my New Years is somewhat absent of the motivation that I normally associate with this time of year.

Thankfully, I’ve spent this week hosting an awesome visitor in Missoula-  Jess, from the fabulous Strangled Darlings, came out to visit.  Her cheer, and desire to understand this place that I enjoy so much, made it an active week despite my low motivations.

If you come to Missoula, this may become mandatory.

Highlights included some great jamming, a carousel ride, trivia night at FLBC, and a day trip up to see the Missions and Flathead Lake.

So good to see a bit of Portland out in the Montana field.

Some of the view that first tempted me to Montana- the Missions.

For whatever lack of motivation I feel this year, I realized this on my hike yesterday: the most important thing to do with my life this year is not worry too much about it.

“Today isn’t special. We aren’t special until or unless we make ourselves so. And everyone’s journey is one day shorter. Did you use this day?” (attribution withheld out of respect for respect for the speaker)

Tomorrow is as full of opportunity as you make it.

Even Better

I spent most of 2011 traveling, climbing, having fun, and being with people I cared about.  I didn’t have to work, I had few if any responsibilities, and in review I’m pretty happy to say that it was the best year yet.  I rang in 2012 swing dancing to a live big band with a good portion of downtown Missoula as part of the First Night festivities- credit to Hannah for dragging me onto the dance floor, and credit to my friend and co-worker Andy for showing  some serious swing moves.

Enjoying a very tight band, and I didn't have to play!

One thing I’m sure of though, is that is only gets better.  I’m working, I have limited means, and I’m in a place which is less accessible to everywhere else- but somehow, all of those things seem like factors that are going to enrich my experience rather than detract from it.

I may not know exactly how yet, but 2012 is going to be even better... (yeah the photo is blurry, but the feeling is spot on.

New Years Day and Thanksgiving are the two major holidays that really mean something to me.  I got up this morning and biked over to the hills just behind the University and hiked up to the University M that is built into the hillside.  Something about the first light on the first morning is a good time to get inspired, and I hadn’t seen the city from that vantage yet.  What are you going to do to make 2012 the best year yet?  I’m not sure, but I got plans… stay tuned.

Missoula, on the first morning of 2012, from "The M" on Mt. Sentinel.