Category Archives: Traveling

Skander-ness

“…accepting what already is, what has always been, is to grasp happiness. With this in mind, we do not become happy, but rather realize the happiness that always is.

Examples of this just being are ever present in natural settings. An eagle perched in a tree keenly watches. It does not try to be an eagle, it is eagle-ness, and it does not try to watch, it just watches. The effort is not to have meaning in living, rather the effort is to be meaning. The mountains do not have meaning, their forms are the meaning of “mountain”.”

-Dave W. Wise

Montana Centennial Route

Josh- thanks for the adventure. Montana Centennial route follows the left skylight directly behind us. We’ll be back soon.

adventure

I woke up on June 29th knowing exactly where I needed to go for the 4th of July holidays.  A few phone calls and a few days later, I was headed into the Cowen Cirque south of Livingston, Montana.  In my last blog post I lamented not having the adventures I really want. Time to stop lamenting.  We left Bozeman at 530am on the fourth, carried our climbing gear up the 9 mile, 3,600′ vertical trail, and drank in views of an incredible climbing line. Knowing my foot, and afternoon thundershowers were still a huge liability, we took the rest of the day to rest and watch the weather. It rained at 430pm, blew over at 630pm, and our friend Marko showed up to boost the spirit at 7pm.

At the base of the very wet route.

At the base of the very wet route.

Josh and I woke up at 400am on the 5th, and moved quickly- breakfast, bathroom, gear, approach the route.  545am- rain. Shit. And it kept raining.  We found the base of the route, but it was pouring, so we bailed and hiked up into the Cirque.  While we were both sad not to climb the technical route, I think it’s impossible not to be stoked on simply being in the Cowen Cirque.

The Yellowstone Range, from the Cowen Cirque.

The Yellowstone Range, from the Cowen Cirque.

We had left a few creature comforts in hopes of “going light” and with more rain on the horizon, it seemed unlikely the route would be dry even by the 6th. So we hiked out and made promises of our return.

More hiking. Great company.

More hiking. Sad faces but great company.

This is for my mom- it's wildflower season...

This is for my mom- it’s wildflower season…

After the hike up to the Cirque, and 20 miles on the trail, my foot was cooked. Maybe the weather was a sign I wasn’t ready to be on big rock routes, but it doesn’t matter.  The focus of my weekend changed on the way down, perhaps towards something even more important.

So wet. Everywhere.

So wet. Everywhere.

Back in Bozeman Josh left for the Tetons, and I was still itching for a climbing fix.  Marko and I headed out to Gallatin Canyon for a few pitches, and a little more validation that my foot is indeed still recovering. The rain chased us back to Bozeman, and left me scratching my head for the “next thing”. Saturday dawned with splitter weather, but I could barely walk. I was searching, and wasn’t going to stop. “Get your bivy gear Marko, let’s go.” My original vision from the previous Saturday wouldn’t fade- we got in the car and let my lead foot take over. I wanted alpine, any way I could get it.

Traffic jam, Yellowstone style.

Traffic jam, Yellowstone style.

East then south, then east, then north. Paradise Valley, Yellowstone National Park, the Beartooth Highway, and East Rosebud came and left the windshield. Saturday night the road ended in Alpine, Montana, and we walked from there. 10 years ago I came to Alpine after my first ever alpine climb on Granite peak. This place is even more inspiring now. We walked up the trail until I couldn’t any more, and camped on a boulder, under a boulder, with the rain washing around us.

Marko.  Always game.

Marko. Always game.

The morning dawned clear and we woke early.  Marko had to work, and I was ready to let some domestic chores pull me away from the deep reflection and introspection the wilderness can bring. Thanks Josh for your indomitable stoke, and Marko for your willingness to simple be there with me.

lessons

So what was I chasing? Skander-ness. Like the eagles, and the mountains, I wanted to see what Skander would do, when he couldn’t be the running, climbing mountain athlete that he aspires to be. For a long time now, I’ve been living with the determination that who we are is determined by what we do- but really, this is backwards.  What we do is a reflection of who we are. In many ways, I am so focused and driven by what I “should” be doing, rather than simply doing what feels most authentic to me. The notion that I am like a mountain, defining “what is Skander” simply by being, rather than pushing myself to be any particularly thing has been comforting.  This post and my trip last weekend are fun reflections of that.

My last few posts have been an accurate reflection of the sadness in my heart. Compassion, breath, and gentleness have been on my mind. These are the things I need most, and are the things that I am the least good at. For a long time I’ve held to the notion that “we can be whoever we dream we are.” I’m realizing that some of the best support I’ve gotten recently has been from friends who share that vision of who I can be, even when it includes the things that I am not so good at. I’ve written a lot about my core values, but sometimes they can feel like a burden I have to uphold rather than an affirmation of who I simply truly am.

This weeks realization: “support” is more than encouraging words or physical acts- it is the belief that someone can accomplish their dreams, even if they are very difficult or don’t come naturally. My friends know my ability for compassion, joy, and gentleness- they are holding that in trust for me. I’m grateful to tap into it.

Portland #6: A Look Back

(written Sunday night)

Driving down I-84 into the Columbia River Gorge Friday night I felt my chest rise and breathe a little more easily. Portland feels like a stable vantage point to look back at the course I’ve plotted since the spring of 2011. A step back from the (suddenly insignificant) concerns I choose to carry in the day to day of Missoula.

Hello Oregon.

Hello Oregon.

Life seems nice here. Maybe it’s the options for breakfast, but more likely it is the deep relationships that have already weathered time and distance. The bigness of the city reminds me of the smallness of my life, like my brother that reminds me not to take myself too seriously.

Mark and George. Trouble.

Mark and George. Trouble.

My foot is healing.  I’m back in regular shoes, but walking with a limp. Workouts still aren’t a priority, and some of the nerve ends still aren’t firing correctly. Many cups of coffee and brilliant Portland food accompany a description of my life that plays on repeat, every two hours meeting a new old friend. David has an xtracycle that makes riding around town feel even more familiar (I still miss that bike). Being back here seems to lift the self imposed limits I’ve put on my life in Missoula.

Many cups of coffee.

Many cups of coffee.

A little too much fun?

A little too much fun?

I mostly made it back to spend some time with Mark and Kylee before they move to Philadelphia. Upon arrival, my priorities seemed to multiply, and I filled every possible minute seeing people. The farther I am from living there, the more I realize how that place affected my adult life.  Thanks to everyone there that continues to support me, David for putting me up (with a real bed and everything), and George for putting up with me.

Barb, the Doctor, and Gleb (if he weren't in Mongolia).

Barb, the Doctor, and Gleb (if he weren’t in Mongolia).

Addendum:

I’m excited to be back in Missoula. In many ways, this is the harder path, but there’s space here for consequence. Space to try and fail and success and explore. Maybe I didn’t challenge myself to take my Portland life to the next level, but it seemed obvious. I left to follow my journey, and I’m glad to come back here and find I’m still on it.

Try!

“Sometimes, you just gotta jump in with both feet and try your best.”

I was in over my head at work again today.  Fortunately when I got home, I saw this from my friend Tom (spoiler- contains adult language, but will make your day). Click the link, it’s the point of the post…

Planning and organizing and teaching people about 700lb windows from Poland is hard, especially when you are 200 miles from home.

unload Zola windows

So difficult it was comic.

Huge props to the Dave and the crew at Chase Skogan Homes. Back to adventures soon.

Stars

A few weeks ago I made a goal to sleep under the stars more. Last weekend Sarah had a great idea for just the place to do that.  I made it to Salt Lake City by Thursday night, and Friday we headed promptly for Zion National Park.

Kolob is the name of the star that Mormons believe that God lives on- it’s also the northern part of the park. If I were God, I could see living here…

Opening views.

Opening views.

Drive the WHOLE overlook road...

Drive the WHOLE overlook road…

Hiking Friday afternoon was stellar, but the camping just outside the park was stellar.  Red sand, bright stars, and dinner par none. We talked about what we might do, and while Zion is famous for rock climbing, I can do that at home.  Technical slot canyoneering, not so much…

Lets go.

Lets go.

Going down.

Going down.

Lead on!

Lead on!

We headed down the famous Keyhole Canyon- which is pretty much everyone’s first Zion canyon, and while short, it had all the right elements.  That is, the right elements to make you want more.  So we jumped in Pine Creek next.  More of everything, including full on darkness and free hanging rappels.  So, so good.

Ready to be cold.

Ready to be cold.

Last rappel- 100' free hanging...

Last rappel- 100′ free hanging…

Mid-air photos.

Mid-air photos.

Our new friend Taylor following after us...

Our new friend Taylor following after us…

Despite my new found love of canyoneering, it seemed criminal to go all the way to Zion and not rock climb, so after a leisurely Sunday brunch we headed out for a few easy pitches before heading back to SLC.

Putting the crack machine to good use.

Putting the crack machine to good use.

Amazing views from the belay...

Amazing views from the belay…

The verdict?  I had a stellar weekend.  I like sandstone, I like canyons, I like traveling, and I like this girl.  Life seems pretty good that all these things fit together.

Ps. I got to hang with my buddy Bryce in SLC who is starting a rad new thing to bridge the gap between gearheads and dirtbags- check it out.

I’ve been in Seattle the last few days to attend the Passive House Northwest Conference.  The German Passive House energy efficiency standard is alive and well here in the Pacific Northwest, perhaps moreso than almost anywhere else in the country.  Beyond lectures on  earthquake stabilized R-35 foundation details and vapor open assembly design, I’ve been here to represent Zola Windows– high performance European built windows.  Energetechs represents Zola because there are no windows made in the United States that absorb more radiant energy than they release in conductive heat loss (standby for an explanation) in the Missoula climate.  Only the Europeans make these things, and surprisingly, it makes sense to bring them here.

That, is a great place to put a Zola Window.

That, is a great place to put a Zola Window.

Zola is a young company run by a brilliant Swiss Architect out of Colorado who started the company at age 26. Like many of the other awesome people I’ve met through the Passive House movement, his core motivation was to maximize the sustainability of buildings and knew that high performance windows are a key part of the equation. He saw the niche, and had the guts to fill it.

I admire him for the fact that he runs a very successful company that he built, from the ground up, and still finishes his day in time to pick up his young child from day care. He figured out that selling hours as an architect limited his impact, when he could have both more personal time, and more impact by selling what he knew was really part of the problem.  I’ve spent a lot of time lately thinking- “I’m in the wrong game.”  I am unimpressed with what I have accomplished in my life, and that frustrates me. This post had previously slammed my friend because I was, on a deep level, jealous of his success- and in a way, knowing him makes me question some of the hard choices I’ve made.

There are many parts to be played in fixing our buildings.  Zola fills an essential need.  Skilled and talented contractors are clutch.  An engaged populace is the foundation.  Manufacturer, builder, consumer- what part are you going to play to maximize your impact on the problem at hand?

The first Zola uPVC windows installed in the US, as of Thursday...

The first Zola uPVC windows installed in the US, as of Thursday…

Habits

There was a photo I took in December that I chose not to publish here- it just wasn’t the right time, but now probably is.

Christmas morning.

Christmas morning.

That’s Sarah.  I took this photo on Christmas Day, just before I kissed her goodbye and drove 510 miles back to Missoula.  This weekend, Sarah made the opposite trip to see Missoula for the first time, and that made me happy in a way that I haven’t experienced in a long time.  Call it as you see it.  To me it’s fun, solid, and exciting, but the title doesn’t really matter- I’m just stoked to think she might show up in my life with increasing frequency.

Despite my month away, life in Missoula has fit back together quickly, and in some ways I’m already fighting to avoid bad habits I was hoping to break away from.  Fortunately, I’ve had a lot of help.  My boss called off work on Friday and bought us lift tickets to enjoy the 3 feet of fresh snow in the mountains around town (which also meant Sarah had a chance to sleep after driving all night to get here for the weekend).

FRESHIEZ

FRESHIEZ

Saturday though, I was more than happy to get back in the habit of finding good ice climbing in Finley Creek.  My friend Tess joined Sarah and I for a perfect day under blue skies and many top rope laps.

More belay.

More belay.

Mostly importantly, Sarah reminded me how awesome it is to break my busy habits, go for a walk, and get to know someone.  Along the river, around my neighborhood, through First Friday, and up the Rattlesnake we enjoyed learning just a little more about who we are welcoming into our lives.  I can’t wait to see her again soon.

Short Trip Home

One ocean, two countries, three states, and four days- I’m back in Missoula tonight, and grateful to be here.  Despite a few detours, the trip home has felt short- perhaps as it should.  I had a fantastic few days in Sydney – visiting old friends, ping pong, cricket, and lots of brilliant food.

Morgan, for the 6!

Morgan, for the 6!

Brotherly death match.

Brotherly death match (photo: Morgan Wagner).

Old friends and new friends (photo: Jill Brigden)

Old friends and new friends (photo: Jill Brigden)

Thursday was a doozy- 7am run. 12pm rock gym session.  5pm “Sunday dinner”. 9pm flight to Honolulu (landed at 10am on Thursday morning, again). 4 hour layover. 6 hour flight to Seattle.  I was very thankful for a few extra seats on the long flight, so I had relatively little jetlag to fight.

In the sunlight.

In the sunlight.

Goodbye.

Goodbye.

I spent Friday in Tacoma with Pat, who graciously stored my car while I was traveling.  I enjoyed seeing his life there, and a fantastic concert by a cellist I didn’t know.  Saturday I split for Bellingham to catch up with Ky and Amanda in their new digs and check out a city I’ve always wanted to see (worth the trip).

Tropics + 36 hours.

Tropics + 36 hours.

Bellingham winter.

Bellingham winter.

I left early this morning to catch breakfast with my friends Bob and Nancy in Stanwood, WA- they’ve been a huge support to me over the years, and I’ve been overdue to check in with them.  Sometimes the smallest visits can be the most supportive.  I got in the car and fired the last 540 miles home this afternoon- Montana welcomed me appropriately.

Winter welcome.

Winter welcome.

I need to express thanks to a tremendous number of people for making this trip possible.  In no particular order: Bob (+family), Alan, Amy, Pat, Andy L, Jane, Marten, Andy G, Dustin, Justin, Micah, Ky, Amanda, Jill&John (+family), and probably at least a few more.  Thank you. I am deeply grateful to the universe for many miles of safe travel and indelible experience.  Cheers.

Skander and Andy Go to the Beach and Break Shit

This trip has been in the making for a long time- I’ve never spent this much time with my brother and his family, and it’s been nothing but good.  Beyond that though, I’ve spent the last week with another wonderful friend, mentor, and human being.  I haven’t written about Andy Lemann very much, but he’s probably been one of the most important people in my life in the last year.

On the way down from the Blue Mountains.

On the way down from the Blue Mountains.

He got me the job that I work and love at Energetechs.
He showed me around Missoula when I didn’t know anyone else.
He’s taught me more than anyone else about architecture, dancing with beautiful women, and simplifying my life.

This is Andy's country, and he knows all the best parts- Kangaroo Valley.

This is Andy’s country, and he knows all the best parts- Kangaroo Valley.

And in September, he taught me quite a bit about family when he left Missoula and moved back to Bowral, New South Wales, to take care of his aging parents and reconnect with the community he left almost 25 years ago.

Apparently, a big deal.

Apparently, a big deal.

Delicious.

Delicious.

Rural towns are eager to have something to be proud of.  In Robertson, that's a giant concrete potatoe...

Rural towns are eager to have something to be proud of. In Robertson, that’s a giant concrete potatoe…

Bowral sunsets from the kitchen sink are not to be missed.

Bowral sunsets from the kitchen sink are not to be missed.

Andy picked me up in the Blue Mountains last Tuesday, and we celebrated his father’s birthday on Wednesday in Bowral.  I found a cello, cranked out a performance of a Bach Suite and Andy and I quickly re-arranged a bunch of the tunes that we had performed together last summer- his father couldn’t be more pleased.  More than anything though, Andy loves the beach, so Thursday afternoon we hitched a dinghy to the truck and headed for Shell Harbor- at which point we started breaking shit.

Surf! For a little bit.

Surf! For a little bit.

Andy gave me an awesome surfing lesson, until I got washing machined on some rocks and cracked a fin off his brand new surfboard (but not before I finally, finally got to stand up on top of a wave).  Friday morning we went sailing, until we jibed south, and the mainsail boom snapped in half like a toothpick.

Sail! For a little bit.

Sail! For a little bit. (Photo – Andy Lemann)

The cockpit cover tore, the bilge pump gave out (momentarily), and we managed to almost overload the dinghy (twice).  I only narrowly avoided driving on the wrong side of the road… twice.

"Bloody hell the boom broke!"  It's a unique feeling that...

“Bloody hell the boom broke!” It’s a unique feeling that…

We had hoped to sail and surf more, but with our toys in disarray we got a box of wine and hopped a train to Sydney.  Andy’s grandmother owns a place in Double Bay, one of the most desirable parts of Sydney Harbour and Andy was eager to share their little slice of heaven with me.  While it was truly a rare opportunity, my body had the last laugh because I spent the one night we had at the house writhing in pain from the wisdom tooth that decided to erupt through my gumline.  Andy naturally, took care of me with utmost compassion, and sent me on the way with family Sunday afternoon.  Thank you my friend, for amazing times here, and wonderful friendship always.

Two men, each more than worth traveling 16,000 miles to see.

Well worth 16,000 miles of traveling. (Photo- Lynley Wagner)

I’m back in Turramurra (north of Sydney) for the last few days of holiday, eating liquid food, and sorting out what other fun I can have while clutching an ice pack to my jaw.  I’ll be trying to get some larger photo albums posted on my Picasa site, and will post links shortly.

Debris

Hard climbing, easy climbing, beautiful climbing- it’s all here in the Blue Mountains. Huge thanks to my hosts Alan and Amy, I’ve had a truly unreal week of climbing, camping, and general horsing around. This past Monday started with an upset as rainy conditions scared us off of “Hotel California” (10p, 5.11b), but after a long walk to the Hanging Rock formation, we went back to Pierce’s Pass to tick “Debris”- the largest, most exposed pitch of climbing I’ve ever seen.

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(Top blue dot= Alan at halfway, bottom blue dot= Skander at hanging belay)

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(Alan is all- “no big deal…”)
This was all Alan. It was his vision to do it, and it was his perfect, onsite lead. The pitch is 52m of sustained 5.11c- major respect. I had nothing to do but support him, I belayed, climbed second, and did most of the being scared. I completed the moves,but not without resting on the rope a number of times- mostly to get my head sorted out against the wild, wild exposure. The movement was mostly straightforward, powerful, and sustained, but the position on the very edge of the arête, overhanging in two directions, was totally stunning.

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(Skander on second… Alan at top)
I have often struggled with big exposure in my climbing, but I wanted to have the experience and get a little further out of my comfort zone. Doing this leaves me feeling like I have some solid tools for feeling less gripped on the big stone. It also made a perfect memory for one of my last days of climbing here with a partner that I have sincerely enjoyed re-connecting with. Do the things that scare you- and when you do, don’t be afraid to realize that those things are awesome.

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(Pierce’s Pass, just above Debris)
Plenty of other less serious fun has also been had. Since my last post, the three of us shared “Sweet Dreams” (5p, 5.9) on Saturday morning (we finished the route by 1030am to beat ridiculously hot temperatures), and spent Sunday climbing piles of very short, very fun problems at the Dam Cliffs (key note, don’t forget to jump the dam!)

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(Long enough to hurt your feet)

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(Climb all the things!)
Camping with hippies, good Indian food, and amazing scenery rounded out the experience. I mentioned hanging rock above, yeah that’s worth a few photos as well. I’m starting to think I need a better camera again:

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(Amy peaks over the edge)

Katoomba

Australian place names are just cooler than American ones- Katoomba is a bit of a tourist trap, but it’s also ground zero for outdoor recreation in the Blue Mountains National Park. As I’ve noticed in the past, climbing makes me feel more at home where-ever I am than almost any other thing I do. Even better, I met Alan two years ago in Squamish, B.C., and he and his leading lady Amy were in town for full on climbing holidays. We’ve been having a very good time.

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(good to see an old friend)

I took the train up Wednesday morning, and after a trip to the post office and grocery, Alan says “how about a quick 5 pitches this evening.”
In a word- “yes.”

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(more exposure please!)

While not the climbing wasn’t particularly beyond me, I’ve never climbed anything so exposed, and Alan’s mate Paul joined us for the fun while Amy rummaged for dinner. We had a good time- more on the phenomenon of “carrot bolts” in another post.

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(top out stoke with Paul)

I got an unlucky finish with rope drag topping out the second crux pitch and felt a muscle tear in my back while yarding up the rope for the seconds. Despite the exceptional climb, it wasn’t the best way to start the trip.

Thursday morning was surprisingly misty and cool, but Amy and Alan were up for some adventure so we headed for another stellar multipitch at Pulpit Rock. Amy lead off, I got the gymnastic overhanging crux, and Alan (who climbs 5.13) stuck the 5.7 outward facing roof chimney pitch (yes, you read that right).

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(misty, but pretty)

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(outward facing roof chimney crack….)
Late afternoon found us racked up at a short sport crag, and despite best best effort at the 5.10d warmup, my back wasn’t up for steep sport climbing. Alan, and his friend Rhys however- proved the moniker that the Blue Mountains are “all about steep, hard, sport climbing.”

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(pull hard, Skander, its steep)

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(whipped)

I took today very easy, still on-siting 5.10c though and feeling my back badly. The scenery and company can’t be beat, and my friends seem to know everyone, so even just hanging out at the crags is a really good time. The Blue Mountains are one of the most unique areas I’ve been in and I’m truly loving my (very relaxed) time here.
I’m blogging from the phone, so posts might be limited and with typos, thanks for following! More soon!

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(Amy, loving it)

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(more steeps!)

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(brilliant views from climbs, photo by Amy O’Toole)