Elves

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(I’m behind on posting, welcome to catching up on the adventure)

A few weeks ago I met some people at the Bozeman Ice Festival that really know how to have fun.  Despite going to Australia this week (oh yeah, didn’t see that coming did you?),  a spontaneous visit to Salt Lake City was on order for Christmas weekend.  A huge thank you to Sarah, Peter, and Brit for being amazing hosts.  While Salt Lake is known for Mormons and the Wasatch front, elves are apparently a big deal too:

Cousins Peter and Brit show off the latest fashions.

Cousins Peter and Brit show off the latest fashions (exterior door shown for scale).

I rolled in on Saturday afternoon, and after a quick hike to check on ice climbing conditions, Sarah and I joined in the Santa pub-crawl mayhem.

Well... someone needed to step up and be Pimp Santa.

Well… someone needed to step up and be Pimp Santa.

Despite a great outfit, I bailed on the pub crawl relatively early with thoughts of ice climbing on my mind.  The ice was surprisingly poorly formed and thin, and while Sarah and I ticked 3 of 4 pitches on “The Great White Icicle” (WI 3, 4p), eventually my judgement won over, and we headed for Brit’s hot tub and a fun little jam session with a few other folks.

Thinner than it looked.

Thinner than it looked.

Sarah isn’t as into backcountry skiing as I am, but fortunately she’s got some great friends.  Matt C, Hasen, Tyler, and Matt X, thanks so much for letting me join the fun.  It was dumping powder in the Wasatch, and while that pushed us on lower angle slopes, we still had an amazing day of skiing.  Sarah had lunch on the table when we rolled home, and suddenly my cello was in hand while Matt C sang Talking Heads.

Doing due diligence in the avy pit.

Doing due diligence in the avy pit.

Sweetness.

Sweetness.

Christmas Eve finished cooking a stellar meal with Sarah, then a small gathering of friends hosted by one of her former professors.

My drive home featured dry roads, and clear skies, so the hours passed quickly. Even with all of the outdoor sports centered in Salt Lake, I’ve spent very little time there.  With friends like these, I suspect I’ll be back soon.

Somewhere south of Dillon, MT.

Somewhere south of Dillon, MT.

Festival

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“We seek festival community because our own communities are dead.”  (Nizlopi)

It’s both true and false- Missoula is a vibrant mountain community with a fairly quiet crew of ice climbers.  Fair to say, the Bozeman Ice Festival brings us to life, and I was excited to have friends from Missoula to share one of my favorite places with.  While I missed the festival last year, it seemed like JoJo and the regular crew really stepped up to take the Bozeman Festival to the next level.  The only problem was, with everyone wanting to join the fun, open climbs were a little illusive…

Saturday.

Saturday.

Full of stoke, Conor D. and I got after it Saturday morning, only to find 18 people in line for Champagne Sherbet and Champagne Slot (which are both forming nicely).  So we hiked.  A lot.  Finally we gave up on finding some more elusive climbs and headed for the Genesis.  Some top rope laps at G1 left us feeling like we had at least done something, and we followed the festival down the canyon as the light faded.

This years festival included a Saturday night party built around an outdoor mixed competition at the Emerson center.  Credit to Marko P., Craig P., and many others for construction and route setting.  Complete with outdoor firepits, live music, and beer vendors, Saturday night was a very good time.

crushing

Stephanie Maureau- climbs harder than almost all the boys- crushing it.

mixedcomp

Bozeman hardman Whit Magro straddling a free handing log 50′ up and 20′ across the overhanging traverse.

Sunday Conor and I linked up with a few other Missoula boys (Cole, Josh, Mack, and Cory) and took over the amplitheater.  I’m still a terrible mixed climber, and was just as happy for Conor to put up the rope on the mixed line just left of “Thin Chance” (which was in, but a little thin for my shaky lead head).  We did both lines, then a lap on Climbs on the Left- by no means a banner day, but I really don’t mind easing back into ice season.

Conor, getting pumped.

Conor, getting pumped.

Lots to remember.

Lots for me to remember.

Sunday night I felt fortunate to be invited to dinner with a few new friends who work for Grivel North America.  It might have been more prudent to head for Missoula on Sunday night, but these connections are one of the reasons it’s so fun to come to a festival.  We enjoyed perfect conversation over perfect food, and my week has felt a little richer because my circle of connections in this strange frozen circle is just a little larger.  The additional time was well worth the speedy drive back on Monday morning.

This place is always spectacular.

This place is always spectacular.

 

 

 

 

Telling

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Despite a dismal forecast on Saturday, I coerced Ky into heading out to check on ice conditions in Finley Creek, just north of Missoula.  Last year, this area provided an important training ground for getting regular time on my tools.  It’s been really warm this fall and while I was hoping the north aspect would hold at least semi-formed climbs, I really wasn’t sure what to expect.  The photos tell it all-

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The black streak is where the GrainEater is supposed to be- taken yesterday December 2, 2012.

This is the GrainEater in early season, but fully climbable conditions- taken Nov. 27, 2011.

This was taken from the same vantage point (approximately), on Nov. 27, 2011.  While this is thin compared to what the climb would be, it was fully climbable at this point in the season last year.

There was almost no trace of ice in Finley Creek on Sunday- a few wisps of ice hinted at the location of the climbs, but nothing that even resembled a “route”.  It seems reasonable to say that we are 3-4 weeks behind last season in route growth.  We spent most of our time hiking in a 40 degree rain storm.  Ski conditions are marginal, and “unseasonably warm” almost seems like a misnomer because it’s hard to be sure what season we are actually in.  It sure seems like the planet is telling us something.

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Several hundred vertical feet and a two miles up the canyon we finally found some semblence of winter, but only barely. I made it to the lake in trail running shoes.

Whether or not there is ice in the hills around Missoula in December isn’t alone an indicator of climate change- I won’t pretent that for a minute, but with plenty of other evidence around, it seems plausible there might be some connection to my little backyard ice playground.  The lack of societal concern about climate change is thoroughly frightening to me.

Last night I saw a I saw a short piece from the Rachel Maddow show that aired just after the elections last month (really, click the link).  I couldn’t agree with her more.  For all the junk science, and political posturing we’ve been exposed to, and which I’ll try not to propagate here, I think she hits the nail on the head- “There are real problems in the world. There are real knowable facts in the world. Let’s accept those and talk about how we might approach our problems differently. Let’s move on from there.”

(Ed. note- This was not the post that I had aspirations of writing, but I wanted to get the photos up.  More on this train of thought hopefully later this week)

Speak Out

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Someone told me today that they wanted to get better at public speaking and asked for my advice.  I thought what I had to say was worth sharing here:

“Connect with your passion in whatever you are talking about. Bring whatever you have to say back to your passion- if its invasive species, or vegan gourmet, or energy efficiency, connect to that. If you are talking about something really esoteric or far from your passions, find a way to joke about it, or something about it that you genuinely want to learn more about.  If you find yourself in the unfortunate place of talking about something you really don’t know anything about, own that too- get vulnerable and admit your ignorance, there are few better ways to make friends.

People connect via authenticity, vulnerability, and humor- if you can use one of these, you win. Also, practice. It sucks and it’s hard, but speaking is really one of those things that only happens when you put yourself on the spot and do it. Take every chance you can get to speak in front of people (it’s scary), and make a deal with yourself that you won’t back down from an opportunity.  It gets worse, then better, and then- it gets fun.”

Next Friday I’m looking forward to giving a presentation about my professional work to a group of architects in Helena.  I am a little nervous about it.  The vulnerability tactic is definitely my plan, but I also respect what I have to say, so I hope I can speak authentically.  I mildly expect my audience to eat me alive (architects and contractors in the construction industry tend to be at odds with one another).  I can’t hide the fact that I’ve only been at this contracting gig for a year (holy crap, it’s been a year)- so I intend to own it, and while usually presenters are on the spot to teach something, I’m thankful that I tend to walk away having learned something.

ThanksAction

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One of the biggest reasons I like Thanksgiving so much is that it reminds me (and leaves a day off) to express how thankful I am to the many people that make my life rich.  I call this ThanksAction.  I will give Facebook some credit for being a useful way to keep track of people that might otherwise disappear into the ether.  My Thursday was punctuated with cooking, laughing, and text/phone/facebook messages from across the world.

Hiking the M to get our appetite on!

Dinner was a small group of lovely folks, and a large table of delicious food.

Prairie Heritage Farm Heirloom turkey, perfectly seasoned and done.

Very thankful for friends that love to cook.

Who are you thankful for?  How can you let them know?  I know few things that can improve your day as powerfully and quickly as sharing some gratitude with someone.  My ThanksAction has continued through the weekend, and perhaps one of the things I’m most thankful for is that I haven’t run out of people to get in touch with yet.

Special.

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It is important to remember that the most important, special, things tend to happen in just their own time- and that time has been the last 9 days.

This past weekend I was again at Prairie Heritage Farm to slaughter turkeys for Thanksgiving.  You’ve seen the pictures from last year, so I’ll spare the gory details, and if last weekend wasn’t one to celebrate my anniversary in Montana, this one certainly was.

The high, northern plains.

There’s a feeling I get being out there, on the high northern plains.  The openness of the land and the warmth of its people remind me why the hard, unglamorous work of farming is what has shaped many of the richest, and most fulfilling parts of our culture.  Jacob and Courtney seem to draw a particularly beautiful crew of people each year to help with the grisly work- I was particularly privileged to enjoy the company of my new friend Katie for the drive from Missoula to Power, and our shared work slitting throats together.  We had glorious weather, and spectacular new facilities for the slaughter- making this year less about “getting through it”, and more about “doing it right and having fun.

Getting what she came for.

Farm-fresh and amazing, dinner is not to be missed.

The introspective observations:

  • As much as I enjoy my time on the farm, I don’t feel compelled to farm- but I do feel compelled to empower other people to farm.
  • The hard and unglamorous work of farming often mirrors the hard, unglamorous work of contracting- and I like that.
  • Being around this group of people made me start to seriously think about my own aspirations in participating in the sustainable food system.  How can I participate more?

A humble day of work and 10 gallons of blood.

The practical observations:

  • People always look funnier with turkey blood splattered on their faces.

“I told you not to look directly at the turkey…”

  • Turkey farts smell really bad, and are hilarious.

    The look on little Declan’s face says it all…

  • There is such a thing as “sipping Tequila.”

It was a special weekend, and no doubt I got what I came for.

A few other highlights from the last 9 days:

  • I had a hilariously good time as a guest soloist with the Dodgy Mountain Men last Thursday night as Missoula said goodnight to our beloved Top Hat (until spring of 2013).  Thank you gentlemen, and I look forward to more songs soon.

Soundcheck.

  • Despite a year of injuries and training focused entirely elsewhere- I still put 10 more pounds on my best-ever deadlift last Tuesday night.
  • Last Sunday I took the first few steps on the next BIG adventure.  Stay tuned.

Safe to say, I will have plenty to give Thanks for at the table this Thursday.

The Seeley-Swan at sunset.

Special?

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Today didn’t feel special, but I had the notion that it was supposed to.

I did not appropriately prioritize my time today.

I did not accomplish anything of particular note.

The adventures I would like to be having remain far away.

I started paying rent at an apartment in Missoula on November 10, 2011.  The ordinari-ness of today rests uncomfortably at the back of my head, as it seems to be another in a string of ordinary days.  This is not acceptable.  I look forward to making tomorrow different.

Participation

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There’s only one thing that you must do today- vote.

Please do not let this thing fall off your list today.  Call in sick, take your kids with you, drive instead of bike- this matters.

Some people say “it’s rigged” or “my vote doesn’t matter” or “I refuse to participate in a system that is broken.”  Fine, perhaps, but- your participation only makes it less broken, and most of the things on your ballot (like your local officials) actually do depend on a handful of votes.  Skip the national election if you really must (I would still prefer you didn’t), but there are people in your community that are fighting damn hard to work for you, and they’ve earned your support, I guarantee it.

If you don’t know where to vote- here.

If you don’t have time to research a candidate, email me with a phone number and I will call you and help you.

Think, and participate.

Solo, Part 2

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How do you stop looking for something you can’t seem to find?

Release the belief that you need it.

Tonight I spent $16 on cover charge and drinks with people that I wanted to care about, but the grand total was coming home feeling empty.

Last night I spent alone, sweating in the gym, and came home feeling satisfied with my life.

I’ve put most of the pieces of my life back together since I stopped traveling one year ago.  Profession, adventure, public service, community.  Romance hasn’t been one of them, and sometimes that feels lonely.  I’ve had this conversation several times with friends lately- that I’m smart and fit and funny and talented- but solo is how I roll whether I like it or not.  Strangely enough, I’m convinced it’s not the external factors that really matter- the music was good, the people were fun, but sometimes you know when you are trying to convince yourself that you’re having a good time.

I’m not proud to write this post, but it’s part of my life so it must be discussed.  The rich experience that some of my favorite couples enjoy makes charging through my life solo seem just a little less vibrant.

Council

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Power for a new Montana.

This past weekend, one year ago, I drove out to Montana from Portland to attend the 2011 AERO Annual Meeting.  The drive felt familiar from ice climbing trips, and the landscaping was just as stunning as I had remembered it from previous trips.  If you’ve been following, you know that the trip in 2011 was different, because the only trip back to Portland was to collect my belongings and say goodbye.

Welcome.

This past weekend, I drove a little further east to Lewistown, Montana, to attend the 2012 AERO Annual Meeting.  Driving across the beautiful Montana landscape, I remembered AERO being introduced to me as “a tribe”, and the Annual Meeting, our highest council. Our tribe is that of sustainable living, and while we are far between on the vast landscape, our bonds are strong.

Senator Jon Tester opens the morning by video-conference. We had a nice little chat about energy conservation…

Measurement and verification data from regenerative grassland practices using cattle. Compelling.

I wish I could stick links in the photo captions, but I can’t.  Jim Howell from Grasslands LLC and The Savory Institute uses cows to heal land (and feed people).  I used to think that sustainable ranching was an oxymoron.  Now I think it might be the only thing that could actually fix our North American eco-system.

I love Jeff and Betsy Funk.  They might be two of the most influential people I’ve met in Montana.  I’ve got to figure out how to spend some time with them without making significant financial contributions to AERO (which I did, again…)

One of Jeff Funk’s amazing tools, up for the live auction. I’ll be headed back to make some more.

I’m not sure if people expected to see me again, but they welcomed me as if they did.  There was a certain sense of pride in connecting with people I had not seen since last year, and sharing that I had indeed found my place in Missoula, in Montana.  We shared successes and failures, and hopes and dreams- and more than anything, when this tribe gets together, we have a really, really good time.

Caption Unnecessary.