Category Archives: People

Smith by Bike

I’ve written a bunch about trips to Smith Rock State Park, so I’ll spare you the details of the climbing and butt-shots of me halfway up the way.  This trip to Smith was more about an idea.  The idea that crops up when I talk to my brother about climbing, or fill another tank of gas on the way to some distant crag.  The idea that my climbing absorbs more than my fair share of resources.  That climbing trips are more complicated than they should be.  That we all own and bring too much stuff.

Note the rope peaking out from under tarp on the trailer.

My friend Sylvia was in town to celebrate two different weddings, which I was also involved in.  We had a week in between, and wanted a “carfree” adventure.  Smith has strong meanings for both of us, and Sylvia has a history of tough bike tours under her belt- it was only obvious to load up our gear and ditch our cars, to see if we could climb at Smith without burning any gas.  We had 6 days, just enough to make it to Smith, climb, and get back, or so we thought.  We pared down our gear, donned our bike shorts, and wasted a bunch of time while I tried to get my pedals, panniers, and presta valves in order.  We finally pulled out of Portland around 3pm on Sunday afternoon.

It all fits... barely.

I started out with the draws, food, and stove, while Sylvia had the rope (each of us carried our own bivi sac, clothes, shoes, and harness).  We made it into Mt. Hood national forest, and camped along a logging road just off Hwy 26.  Not quite as much mileage as we would have liked, the narrow road and fading light convinced us camping was prudent rather than pushing on.  Plus, we’d have fresh legs for the climb Monday morning (and an awfully long way yet to go).

We felt good waking up, and got rolling around 9am, climbing steadily for the first 45 minutes.

On top of our first big pass in Government Camp, OR.

There are 3 passes to get around Mt. Hood, then about 30 miles of downhill, and temperatures stayed cool while we worked through most of the climbing.

She just keeps on truckin'.

Unfortunately, getting the climbing done while it was cool put us in the sun, and in the desert around 2pm.  Careful that we still had many miles to Smith, we knew proper nutrition was imperative:

After 5 hours of riding, the BLT goes down hard.

Temperatures peaked just as we dropped into the Deschutes crossing and started a 2,000′ climb out of the river bottom.  We got the climb done, but it took the best out of both of us, and the additional mileage left to Smith was a battle.  After climbing out of the Deschutes, an old quadracept injury started to flare up for me, and Sylvia had some knee issues of her own.  Things had started to go sideways…

Lovin' the downhill, not far from Terrebonne.

Our first sight of Smith, just on the horizon.

We made it to Terrebonne around 7pm, stocked up at the local Thriftway, and destroyed a rotisserie chicken.  95 miles at 95 degrees out Making camp under the stars at Smith has never been so satisfying.

True to our objective, we did get up and climb routes on Tuesday morning, but both of us were feeling the effort of our ride.  I was totally out of shape for sport climbing, and the brutal heat saw us down at the river for a mid-day siesta.  My knee was still hurting, and both of us were feeling the weight of commitments left unattended in Portland. Sylvia had been debating getting an early ride back to make the most of her time in Portland (she usually lives in Wyoming), and I realized I would be asking for trouble to ride home alone in time for the wedding rehearsal on Friday.

Sometimes you eat the dog, and sometimes the dog eats you.  We called for a rescue- a huge shout out to our friend Alex for making the drive down to get us.  I’d be tempted to call it a failure, but I learned way to much to bury the experience on a negative tone.  A few important lessons:

  • Don’t forget to take your climbing shorts, key to the bike lock, and phone charger.
  • Fix slow leaks the right way, the first time.
  • Pick safe and quiet roads, even if they mean more distance.
  • Overestimate the time it takes to cover a distance.  2 very fully days would have been appropriate, 3 days would have been comfortable.  1.5 days was not nearly as fun.

Many thanks to Sylvia for being a staunch and experienced partner, I look forward to future bike adventures together, and remembering these lessons on my future adventures.

Walk the Line

Lately I’ve been asked for advice a lot. I’ve had an opportunity to support friends, face my own insecurities, and strive for an outcome greater than expected.  Often this has had to do with my relationships to other people.  We’ve all had those moments, looking back thinking “god I hope I never make that mistake again.”  And usually, mistakes are repeated before the lesson is learned.  We are human, and it takes us a few times around the block to figure out how the pedals work- often longer.  A few of the lessons that have stood out to me lately:

  • Figure out what you really want.  Often said, rarely done.
  • What you really want doesn’t have anything to do with who you think the other person is, or what they want.  It’s about you.
  • Be yourself, stay close to yourself, be as true to what you want for yourself, and want for the world as you can possibly be.
  • When you figure out what you want, be discerning about going to get it.  Pursue it ruthlessly- if what you are doing right now isn’t getting you there, stop doing it, and try something else.
  • It is incredibly difficult to be discerning enough in our relationships.  The act of discerning can seem incredibly difficult, but only because it is obvious- the unseen pitfalls that are certain to come with a lack of discerning are much, much deeper.
  • It only hurts when we clutch it too tightly.

I publish these thoughts here mostly to remind myself of them later.  Walk the line of discernment, and keep company that will walk that line with you.

Jacob wrapping up a long session of squats, and inspiring me to keep pursuing the quality I'm looking for.

“Real friends are willing to make sure that next week’s you is better than this week’s you.” (Mark Twight)

Dustin

In January of 2008 a friend suggested I meet another person in Portland who was interested in green building.  I met Dustin at the fountain on the west end of the Hawthorne bridge, and we went for a run around the Esplanade.  I went home that night knowing I had met someone unique.  For the last 3 years, Dustin has been one of my most important and reliable friends day in and day out- today was the last day we will spend together for a very long time.

The friend I met down by the river.

I’m headed on a bike tour abroad, and Saturday morning Dustin is moving to Berkeley, California to pursue a graduate degree in architecture.  I’m not worried that our friendship will suffer (most of my closest friends aren’t geographically nearby), but it will be an end to working on his house, riding bikes, and burning a fire under southeast Portland stars.  Long ago I realized that our friends support us both in affirming, and in questioning our ideas and actions.  My friendship with Dustin has been one of the strongest supports to me and the course of action I have taken in my life.  I know very few people who live their values as well as Dustin, or are able to make me look in the mirror so carefully.

I’m excited to see how our friendship continues to grow, the ideas we will share, and the ways in which we inspire each other to change the world.  I hope that there will be more time to spend together in the future, and I know I will always feel grateful for the time we have spent these past few years.  Thank you my friend, for so many great days.

Thanksgiving Day 2009 in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Goofing around at the Spring Mountain Crags.

Part 7: Teardown

One of the stipulations of being on the Muldrow Glacier patrol was also to assist with tearing down the 7,000+ lbs of tents, food and supplied stored and used by the National Park Service at 14,000′ on the West Buttress route of Denali. This usually takes place every year in the second week of July and involves packing the camp into helicopter netloads, and flying the loads off using the A-Star helicopter taking ~500lbs per trip. My first patrol in 2009 (in which I was able to visit the South summit of the mountain), was conducted expressly to complete this purpose, so the task was not new to me.

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This view seems familiar...

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The best pooper view in the world?

July 8 myself and three others descended to the 14,000′ camp to begin teardown and meet another NPS patrol- two others stayed high to return to the south summit on July 9 as the good weather was sticking around. In hindsight, this left quite a bit more work for some of us down low. The Park Service often has a hard time figuring out when when and how to schedule and stage these loads, so teardown can be a cat and mouse game between the rangers on the ground, the weather, and helicopter availability. We pulled into camp, and the park administration immediately called wondering if we had loads ready to fly.

The next few days were lost in a blur of furious activity. The rest of our team arrived at 14 and we put our backs into getting things packed tight. The weather unfortunately, rewarded our efforts with a whiteout and unfliable conditions for 3 straight days. With loads rigged and ready, we were stuck until we could fly loads. Most volunteers had flights on the 14 and 15, so the evening of July 12, one ranger and 7 volunteers left on ski/snowshoe to walk to basecamp and fly out, while one ranger, myself, and 2 other volunteers with looser time commitments stayed behind to finish packing and fly loads once the weather broke. We knew we still had a lot of work to do, but it was a hurry up and wait situation, with 7 folks not being able to wait any longer. The 8 folks walking down had their own adventure in the horrendous conditions of the lower glacier- multiple cravasse falls, whiteout, and slogfest conditions were reported.

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Just a little snow on the tent to shut down helicopter operations.

The morning of July 13, the clouds broke clear and we got word the helicopter was finally inbound. Starting around 9am, we sprinted to make the final arrangements, and fly off 15 helicopter net loads before the weather closed in. Not quite enough. We sat with 2 loads to go plus one trip for ourselves, and debated sitting on the mountain for another few days with minimal food and fuel, four guys to a tent. Around 7pm, things cleared up just enough to get the last loads, and ourselves, off the mountain. We felt a little like heros, but mostly we just felt worked- physical labor at 14k will drain you. We flew back to Talkeetna on the last flight and landed back in town around 9pm, just in time for last call at the West Rib. There was much celebration, and a nail biting finish to an outstanding expedition.

Thanks to Dave, Tom, and Minu for working like machines to get it done at the last minute. Thanks to Chris for bringing me on patrol in the first place. Thanks to Josh, Drew, and Bob for their unlimited encouragement and partnership. Thanks to Andy and Rico for the ride home. Thanks to Amanda, Margaret, and Michael for making Alaska feel like home away from home. Thanks to all of you for sharing the adventure with me, I’ll post more photos as I sort through them.

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Minu and I, on the commute home after a hard days work...

 

 

Palmer, Alaska

I’ve spent the past six days between expeditions in Palmer, Alaska, with two good friends from Northwestern.  Margaret moved up here just after she graduated, met a really great guy who likes to fix computers, and decided to make her mark by saving local agriculture.  Although I didn’t know my friend Courtney very well before she arrived in Alaska, I feel very fortunate to have gotten to know her much better.  We enjoyed quite a bit of amazing food, great hiking, local Alaska culture.  Preparing tonight to head back into the wilderness, I can’t help but notice that my heart hurts to say goodbye to such good friends.  The wilderness strips away everything, which is why coming back out always feels so good.  I’ll let the photos finish the story:

Learning my father's craft- baking bread with Margaret.

Just a little Alaska irony...

Artwork by Emily Longbrake- a perfect way to remember wine, cheese, and bread on the beach with new friends.

The weather split just in time for me to show Courtney around the Matanuska glacier.

It's a privilege to have had so much quality time with an exceptional woman.

All geared up for helicopter training with the Park Service.

We’re catching a bus to the north side of Denali National Park tomorrow morning, taking the bus to Wonder Lake tomorrow afternoon, and hopefully fording the McKinley bar river in the middle of Thursday night when the water is nice and low.  We are scheduled to head back out of the range on July 13 and I’ll have more updates then, thanks for following!

Two hands, two feet, and some chocolate

The backcountry, just outside of town.

Staring out at the vista, the juxtaposition of being 45 minutes from home just didn’t seem to add up to me.  My friend Courtney from Northwestern is starting a similar nomadic journey and it’s been great to be able to meet up with her and share some awesome Alaska experiences together.  We spent yesterday on a dayhike into the Hatcher Pass area northwest of Palmer.  Known for hiking and backcountry skiing, I was struck at just how wild the landscape was, despite the proximity to “the city.”  Normally I don’t feel the sensation of being in the wilderness without a heavy pack, climbing gear, and several days on the trail, but as we pulled onto the ridge, Courtney and I remarked at just how much we were able to do with two hands, two feet, and a little bit of chocolate.  Many thanks for a great day out.

Its still cold here in the summer.

So fun to share new places with old friends.

Cracks, part 1

(from May 30th, 2011)

My ego was swelling  and I could feel my frustration rising.  We were practicing cravasse rescue and I was supposed to be demonstrating, but mostly I couldn’t stop noticing the things I missed.  Chris was making me feel like a fool 16 minutes into the rescue  and I was already mad at him, and more angry with myself.  We stopped the exercise early to debrief but the mistakes continued through the afternoon.  And then, I recognized how badly I needed the humility that seemed illusive.

It should have been obvious- until 3 days ago, I hadn’t traveled on a glacier in 2 years.  Chris is a professional mountain ranger with hundreds of field days and some of the best training available.   We all make mistakes- especially in the hot seat when our buddy is in the crack.  We talked.  I learned, energy and joy returned.  We sweated together under the blazing Alaska sun and watched the avalanches cascades off the flanks of Mt. Francis.  It was a great day.  Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.  Humility trumps ego every time– and don’t forget rule #6.

Mt. Francis, just above Basecamp.

Portland #1: Community

“So how has this experience changed your personal relationships?”
My friend Luna was getting the update on my trip, except our conversation was markedly different from most of the other similar conversations I’ve had in the past few days being back in Portland.  Luna asks the most wonderful questions, and listens with an intensity that removes your ability to bullshit an answer.

The question provided me an opportunity to articulate a few important points that I’ve been thinking about often in the past 6 weeks, but that I hadn’t articulated succinctly- but the answer lies in a single word, community.  A few examples:

  • My relationship with my brother has grown stronger in the past 6 months than it has been in the past 6 years.
  • I’ve practiced building a new sense of community with an amazing group of climbers and travelers from Australia, England, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Canada, South Korea, and various US states.
  • I’ve learned to share what I have better, and accept what others offer me more willingly.
  • I’ve returned to Portland to find a community of friends eager to share my adventures, support my aspirations, and send me on the next leg of my trip.

Most recent mornings, I’ve woken up and taken stock of the day only to do a double take while wondering if it’s actually possible my life could be so good.

I’ve been in Portland since late Wednesday night, and I’m here to switch out my gear and fly to Alaska on Tuesday morning.  I decided to leave the valley when I did to ensure I had enough time to give a little more time to The Commons, see friends that I have missed dearly, and ensure I have ample time to consider exactly what to take for 2 months in the Alaska range.  To some, the preparations may seem daunting, but I’m grateful to say that the only overwhelming part of the past few days has been receiving the amount of good energy from so many wonderful people.  I can’t accept credit for having so many wonderful people in my life in one place- but I can consider it proof that “the universe is unfolding as it should.”  I’ll let the photos detail some of my recent activities.

Sunny local climbing at Broughton Bluff.

So exciting to see drywall in The Commons.

It was an exceptionally fun Sunday morning bike ride.

Real friends will let you sort your gear in their living room.

Being here feels solid and familiar.  Like home? Perhaps, but that seems too strong of a question for this stage of my explorations.  I’m thrilled to feel the energy, support, and strength that come from just checking in with so many of the people that I care about, and at the same time am unbelievably excited about the upcoming prospect of 9 weeks in one of the most inspiring places I’ve ever been. Booyah.  This is the most sincere thank-you to everyone who has made this place feel so grounding the past few days, Portland feels like the perfect launch pad for the next stage of adventure.

There is a certain romance to all cities dominated by their bridges.


Alturas, California

On the road and heading south with Jordan! After a great one day stop in Portland, the excitement of new places and people make every horizon feel fresh. We stopped at Crater Lake National Park (still buried in snow), and found a spot to camp just across the California state line near a town called Alturas. We found squat camping at the national wildlife refuge, even better sunset views and Jordan put on a first class dirtbag meal of hotdogs, baked beans and PBR. Welcome to roadlife…
Headed down to Bishop, CA today and hopefully in time to make friends and boulder tonight. This is one of the parts of the trip I’ve been looking forward to the most. In October 2007 I took a really important roadtrip from Portland to Prescott, AZ and we travelled through the same part of the country. It’s cool to revisit this place and consider the person I was at that time, and who I am now. The progression is both humbling and fulfilling to see. Needless to say that progression doesn’t look like what I thought it might then, but that’s actually a really good thing.

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Shakedown Cruise

This portion of my trip almost doesn’t really feel like the real trip.  When the Navy builds a new ship, they give it a “shakedown cruise” before they order it into the fight to make sure that everything works the way it’s supposed to.  Before I launch farther afield, I’m using this week to get acquainted with some of my future challenges.  Obviously, I’m most curious about how my recently surgered foot will handle the rigors of camping, climbing, hiking, running, and other random adventures.  I’m also learning about organizing my car, finding free/safe camping, cooking with and fixing two busted stoves, and realizing which of the volumes of stuff I’m traveling with actually makes sense to carry.

That said, my shakedown crew has been nothing short of spectacular.  Dustin and I got out of Portland around 11am on Saturday morning, and started enjoying beautiful weather as soon as we dropped off of Barlow Pass.  We stopped to collect firewood before the reservation at Warm Springs and I realized that my sense of time, and priority had already started to shift.  It was okay not to get to Smith as fast as possible, it was great to get to stop and see historical markers I’ve never stopped for.  The weekend warrior life rewards focus, but is often devoid of chance.  I finally feel like I have time to breathe.

It was sunny, but still quite cold by the time we got to Smith, and with both me and Dustin being out regular climbing shape we only managed a few easy pitches.  I remain indebted to Dustin for leading an unfortunately hard warmup 5.10a, because despite the cold, all the other easy lines on the front-side were taken.  After climbing, we wandered back to Skull Hollow, set up camp, and got dinner going.  In the dark we missed an inconvenient sign just in front of the car.  Dustin had an effective solution, and we enjoyed our dinner and campfire.  More than almost anything else, Dustin loves to think, and our conversations always leave me feeling richer.  Thanks dude.

Sign? What sign?

Sunday we got on the rock earlier and grabbed an easier line to warmup on while waiting for my good friend Kelly to join us.  We’ve been working out together for over a year, but only gotten to share a rope a few times. Not surprisingly it was equally enjoyable to get to spend another day climbing with her as trying to keep up with her in the morning workouts.  We worked a number of climbs in the ShipWreck gully area, and much to my surprise, and some concern, I was able to lead More Sandy Than Kevin (5.11a).  This surprised me not only due to the lack of protest from my foot, but also the fact that I haven’t climbed regularly in two months, and had only run two laps on the route during my last day at Smith [insert link].    I also appreciated the encouragement from my friend Pat, who had come down to enjoy the day, as he had been there for my previous attempts.  I’m looking forward to climbing with Pat again this coming weekend.

Back in the thick of it, on More Sandy Than Kevin (5.11a). Photo: Danica Yates

Dustin getting the goods.

Spent, but with plenty of daylight, the Kelly and Dustin were clamoring to hike, so we cleaned up our gear and headed past the Marsupials to check out the Lower Gorge.

A guy couldn't ask for better companions.

Smith has so many fantastic areas in such a small area…

In the theme of taking the time for new things, we took a right turn uphill just after leaving the Gorge, into yet another part of Smith that I had not explored.  In addition to his ample intellectual abilities, Dustin also has a youthful curiosity about him that often inspires unexpected adventures.  Above the Lower Gorge area, we found an old irrigation canal, with a tunnel leading under the Burma Road and hills just east of Smith.  Not surprisingly, Kelly was more than game to see where this new line went, so we headed into the dark.  Still in the tunnel ½ mile later, we found a slowly growing pool of water at the bottom.  Dustin said “I’m instigating that we go further, it’s only ankle deep…”

Down the rabbit hole...

Another ½ mile later, still in the tunnel, and within sight of the exit, we were wading through hip deep water, freezing, and giggling like school girls.  Once out of the tunnel and on dry ground, we stopped regretting having carried long underwear around in our bags all day and started feeling the screaming barfies in our feet.  We all changed into what dry options we had, and started looking for a new line back to the park.  We ended up on top of the Marsupials ridge, then along the backside of Smith for a stellar sunset, then over Asterisk Pass, and back at the cars only 10 minutes after our target time of 6pm.  I couldn’t have planned a better adventure, or better partners to share it with.

Still giggling, and stoked to have long underwear post swim.

“Take wrong turns.  Talk to strangers. Open unmarked doors.  And if you see a group of people in a field, go find out what they are doing.  Do things without always knowing how they will turn out.” (www.xkcd.com)